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New Dawn - A3

Average Rating = 4.00/5 Average Rating : 4.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 0
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (2)
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aid rack, plus cams to 5"-6"
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty A3
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure (Not Rated)
  Rock Quality (Not Rated)
  Scenery (Not Rated)
  Fun Factor (Not Rated)


This route begins at the far left side of the sloping ledge at the base of Mescalito and follows the corner system that forms the right side of El Cap Tower. Thin hooking/face leads to the corner system, which comprises very thin to OW. There is very little bad or loose rock, except just below El Cap Tower. Leo Houlding freed this route at 5.12, or something. Midway up is Lay Lady Ledge, a fantastic bivy site. Another great bivy ledge is 1/4 rope down from the Tower, out on the face of the nose (not in the corner system). The route ends at Texas Flake. Charlie Porter linked this route to the Wall of the Early Morning Light to reach the summit. When I did it, we followed Tribal Rite instead. You can haul the first few pitches in one clean shot off the ground using two 60m ropes tied together. The haul to the right-hand edge of Texas Flake is nearly vertical and clear, but the bag gets stuck at the last five feet under the ledge. If you replace any of those bolts, please redrill them further up and right on the wall, so the bag clears the ledge.

Submitted by: apollodorus on 2006-03-26
Views: 1879
Route ID: 75367

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2 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

  Difficulty A3
  Safety Rating G
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: USnavy on 2012-06-27 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars a


Added: 2012-06-27

Red Point Red Point ascent by: holdplease2 on 2005-09-29 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

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Added: 2005-09-29