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Alien Roof - 5.12b popular

Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 4
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (2)
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.75-1.5, wires
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6' right of Rostrum Roof fingers and laybacking out the roof then reach right for a good hold.

Submitted by: crackwhore on 2002-05-10
Views: 3804
Route ID: 17043

2 Ascents Recorded

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Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: guidebook on 2005-08-26 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

We climbed the regular rostrum, a cool Bombay chimney, perfect hands 10b crack, followed by a triangle belay stance in space, where my new summit shoes felt like they were milking blood out of my feet. Then to a large ledge where most parties exit the climb, but for those who continue is the 11c thin crack pitch. Bill led this pitch then we were under the mushroom like roof looking at the final pitch to summit. Bill planed on climbing out the 10a off with but backed down several times because of poor pro. He resorted to aid the Alien 12b roof instead. Once past the roof bill yelled, “Okay I’m going to stop aiding and climb the head wall clean.” He threw in a 2-˝-inch friend and climbed past it only to hang on all the rest of the gear he placed. So my saying is that Bill led the Alien and did not hang on a piece of gear. Yea the only piece he did not hang on was the 1-˝ inch friend. When I hit the head wall I wanted to hang on the rope but when I did I started to be lowered into space off the lip of the roof. Bill yelled, “ I can’t hold you” so I hook onto a piece of pro. When I reached the top Bill was sitting on the edge of the climb where I had drug him because he was not hooked on to a belay? He said, “ He could not make the manzaneda tree because of all the rope we used for the belay.” This was a very demanding climb, I have only repeated this climb once after in my life.

Witnessed by: Bill Boyle
Added: 2005-08-26

Red Point Red Point ascent by: phoenix on 2004-10-28 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

This already sandbagged route is even more so if you are say...5'5" or shorter. The roof is easily 12.c. Unfortunately, if you are shorter than said height, you cannot reach through to the Regular Rostrum roof crack; instead, you must climb over on crimps to the other crack fifteen feet shy of the bolt and then climb more 12- climbing to the final 5.11 finish. I thought the entire route was at last 12.d given my variation. The day of my redpoint we had climbed the regular Rustrum route to approach the roof; a light rain made the moves at the finish quite exciting. I dub it the Alien Ressurection 12.d.

Witnessed by: Tye from Lander
Added: 2004-10-28