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X-M - 5.10c

Average Rating = 4.50/5 Average Rating : 4.50 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (10)
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Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure 5.00/5
  Rock Quality 5.00/5
  Scenery 5.00/5
  Fun Factor 5.00/5


Awesome route. P1 goes at strenuous 10a/b. Head up corners to a well-protected, right-slanting hand crack. Step across to the X-M Pillar early (easier). Chimney up to top and clip anchors (up high and right). P2 Some call it scary - it is not. Here's the trick: set up the belay so your belayer is sitting way to the left of the pillar, and as far DOWN as possible (using the rope as an anchor clove-hitched to the chains). This way a fall from the crux would not result into a bone-crushing swing into the pillar. Also, there is a key place to step onto the face - look for it! Make a few hard moves on positive edges upwards, look around for a key stopper placement to protect your second, then head left 15 feet to a stance and a flake you can sling. Head up from here to chains. P3 This is now the new scary pitch. Head up past two upwards driven pins, to a cruxy reach to a good hold (scary, balancey). Continue up to overhanging strata, place #2 camalot, head right and up into Outer Space - continue with that route.

Submitted by: jsj42 on 2002-12-27
Views: 1242
Route ID: 19936

10 Ascents Recorded

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  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating G
  Rock Quality
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: plantmandan on 2011-06-04 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Yeah!!!

Full of excitement and great variety. I'd probably be scared to lead it, but I had an amazing rope gun today.

Added: 2011-06-04

Onsight Onsight ascent by: ihuang on 2006-07-29 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

Fun route! Have the second clean the nut after pulling the crux to prevent the pendu

Added: 2006-07-29

  Safety Rating R
Onsight Onsight ascent by: flamer on 2006-05-08 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Blahhh....

Fun route. Not to bad at 5.10c. Alittle runout, but no big deal really.

On 4/2/2007 I made another ascent of this route. Only this time I took the whipper on the third pitch. Fell about 10ft..and wouldn't you know it that damn pin held!

Witnessed by: glen
Added: 2006-05-08

Flash Flash ascent by: edouble on 2005-09-10 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

Gotta love Matt

Added: 2005-09-10

Red Point Red Point ascent by: taco_bill on 2005-08-03 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

No comment

Added: 2005-08-03

... Read all 10 ascent notes