Awesome route to the left of Sykes Sickle. Easy but nice pitch up to middle earth. Take a thin, pumpy 5.10 finger crack off the ledge up to a nice belay. Two easier (5.9 and 5.8) pitches lead up flakes to nice ledges. The fourth pitch goes right to a short thin crack, make exciting moves up the crack then go right around the arete into a right facing dihedral. Excellent 5.9 climbing with a few fixed pins gets you to a half circle belay crack. The fifth pitch starts with an incredible and very exciting 5.9 traverse on knobs (unprotected for about 15 horizontal feet), then up to a belay at flakes and old bolts. The sixth pitch is the crux and is protected by two old quarter inch bolts. We left a bolt hanger on the first bolt as it was missing for some reason. Very difficult moves past the first bolt lead up to the second bolt and a long horizonal traverse. The traverse is 5.10 and pretty amazing. Belay on a nice ledge. The last pitch is a little right of the belay and leads up a slot to amazing 5.9+ hands and fingers. Go left at a roof and finish in an easier dihedral that leads to the descent ledge. Excellent route with many exciting sections.
Submitted by: pt on 2005-07-13
Route ID: 68019