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Escape Artist - 5.10a

Average Rating = 5.00/5 Average Rating : 5.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (4)
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Rock (Trad)
Trad Rack, 60 m. rope.
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure 4.00/5
  Rock Quality 4.00/5
  Scenery 5.00/5
  Fun Factor 4.00/5


5-8 pitches, .10a or 9+ sandbagged. Same approach as for COMIC RELIEF. Follow SOB gully down to about 200 feet above river. Look for the striking Vector traverse of the second pitch as a reference. Climb easy terraces on left (south) and anchor at a flat ledge on right or from cracks on left. P1- (200ft.)The climb works left on easy 5th class to a set of finger cracks. Choose the one on right (.9), staying well left of the big, dark chimney. If you choose the left most finger crack it will squeeze into low 5.10 at the top. Continue up under the overhanging roof and set a belay where it forces you out for the traverse. This is a long pitch needing a full 60 m. rope. Can be split into two pitches. P2-(100+ft.) Starts on easy ground, gets narrower towards end. The last ten feet has incredible exposure. For some, this is the crux mental pitch. Belay at large ledge below dihedral. P3-(200ft., .9+/.10a) Another long pitch. Needs a 60m. rope or scary simul lead for last ten feet. Crux is at the top of the dihedral. Belay atop sloped ledge at a manky pin. P4-(100 FT,5.8) Climb cracks to large ledge below the dark corner and striking LIGHTNING BOLT CRACK. If climbing the dark corner, set up belay at the L.B. Crack. The corner starts hard and this will give the lead climber some room to work. P5-(150 ft., .9+/10a or .11a) Dark corner- climb straight up corner, being careful for loose blocks, then climb right at the pegmatite band. Gain ledge and belay. P6-8?-(300ft.) Easy 5th class to top of buttress. Goes quicker if Simuled or soloed. Top out on the far left. Rap station is at very edge.

Descent Options:

From top left of the buttress. Find webbing at edge and rap 100 feet through large boulders. Hike up the loose 3rd class gully to the North. Its more secure than it looks. You will gain the trail to the parking lot at top of gully.

Submitted by: stevematthys on 2007-01-12
Views: 1172
Route ID: 26987

4 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating PG13
  Rock Quality
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: cologman on 2007-05-21 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Escape Artist

Kelly B and I made a casual climb of this fine rte.

Added: 2007-06-03

Onsight Onsight ascent by: jimmyray on 2006-08-17 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

Partner: Mike Hankins

Added: 2006-08-17

Red Point Red Point ascent by: iceisnice on 2006-06-07 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

Stellar route, but not as good as comic relief. Had to climb the crux pitch with the dihedral all covered in blood from an accident the day before.

Added: 2006-06-07

Red Point Red Point ascent by: dscottusa on 1987-09-23 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

No comment

Added: 1987-09-23