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Routes : North America : United States : Maine : South : Sohier Park (a.k.a. - The Nubble)

Sohier Park (a.k.a. - The Nubble)

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About Sohier Park (a.k.a. - The Nubble):

This pretty bouldering area is located on scenic Cape Neddick. Sohier Park is really just a parking lot. It is a major destination for lighthouse enthusiasts. Tons of tourists show up everyday to park for a short while and take pictures of one of Maine's most photographed lighthouses: The Nubble Light. The lighthouse is located on an island only 100 feet offshore. It is a small, cragy, 2-acre island. The bouldering is located on a 10 to 15 foot high wall below the parking lot (called the Parking Lot Wall) and on the free-standing boulders scattered across the tide line north of the parking lot (called the North Shore Boulders). The majority of the problems are quite moderate (in the V0- to V3 range) but there is a good smattering of problems in the V4 to V7 range to be found too. The rock here is not the usual granite of Maine and New Hampshire. It has that feel of the quartz-monzonite rock found in places like Joshua Tree and Bishop. Here's what you need to know: 1.) The park is open from dawn to dusk. 2.) About half of the North Shore boulders are tide dependent. To climb them you need to be there within 3 hours of low tide. 3.) The Parking Lot Wall problems are tide dependent too but can be climbed much closer to high tide. 4.) Even though you can wade across to the island at low tide, it is very much OFF LIMITS! Resist the temptation to explore the cliffs of the island! 5.) There summer cabins and a bunch of huge mansions near the North Shore Boulders. Respect people's privacy and stay away from their property. If you can, try to stay below the high tide line.
Nearest town or city: York
Directions: Take Route 95 into York. Get off at the York exit (Exit 7). If you are coming from the north, take a left off of the exit. If you are coming from the south take a right off of the exit. After only a few hundred feet the road ends at the intersection of Route 1. Turn right onto Route 1 and follow it .3 miles south to the next set of traffic lights. Turn left onto Route 1A. Follow Route 1A as it heads along the coastline for 4.8 miles. At this point you’ll have just passed Long Sands Beach. Take your first right after the end of Long Sands Beach onto Nubble Road. Follow Nubble Road 1 mile to a right hand turn into Sohier Park. Park at the parking lot and descend to the water for the bouldering. Total approach time is around 30 seconds.
Latitude, Longitude: 43.16550, -70.59330
Access Issues:
Camping: Pay
When to Climb:
Quantity of Climbs: Day

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