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Joes Rock

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Climbing Sections:

About Joes Rock:

This site used to be bolted for sport lead, most of the routes put up by Ozzie Blumet and Roger Brisson while on lead using a hand drill. Unfortunately all the bolts were "Mysteriously" chopped in the fall of 2002, including several very nice and useful sets of TR anchors with chains.

The climbs can still be protected by TR but it requires LONG slings or static lines, as much as 75'. In some places getting on rapell just to build your anchor is a smart move.

The view of the pond from the summit is very nice and there is a nature path that fully circles the pond if you don't feel like climbing. There are also several picnic tables around if you feel like a picnic, although none closer than 100 yards from the rock.

Due to repeated problems with partying kids, the Wrentham police strictly enforce the curfew at dusk. Plan to break down in plenty of time to not have to sweat it. They are usually pretty cool to climbers as long as you're respectful, usually just a stern warning.
Nearest town or city: Wrentham
Directions: Driving Directions - Follow I-495 to Exit 15 - Rt. 1A North/"South St." (This will be a right off the exit if you were going north on 495, a left if you were traveling south. Either way, if you pass the Wrentham Premium Outlets you turned the wrong way, turn around and go the other way.)
Follow 1A North approx. 1/4 mile to the Wampum Corner intersection. Take a hard left onto Rt. 121 South/"West St." (Careful there is no light here and the turn is easy to miss as 1A bears right sharply at the same point. You will be almost reversing your direction to make the turn. Look for the Wampum Corner Liguor store on your left as a good landmark.)
Follow West St. 2-2.5 mile and you will come to the Roe's Rock Recreation Area on your right. (If you hit the Rhode Island State line you missed it by 3/4 mile)
The sign is very faded but there is a gravel parking area for 6-8 cars that you should spot fairly easily.

Approach: Follow the path past the gate, just past the stream bear right at the first fork. About 100 yds later there is a small path that veers left off the main path. Bear left to get to the bottom of the cliffs, right on the main path to get to the top. Bring LONG slings or static line for TR, I've seen peple have to go back 50+ feet to set anchors on some climbs.
Latitude, Longitude:
Access Issues: none
Camping: Yes
When to Climb:
Quantity of Climbs: Day

Routes

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