Capen Park
About Capen Park:
Capen Park is not a huge climbing area so there is only one section to talk about. The climbing is top rope accessible with some great bouldering on the cliff side closest to the parking lot. The cliff is between 30 and 50 feet. Capen Park offers some good overhang climbing and moderate pocket/crack climbing. The bolts to tie into are not all close to the cliff. So, you will need some long lengths of webbing in order to hang your rope off the cliff properly. One warning would be that the overhangs create a possibility of flying into the cliff if lead climbing so protect well. One final note: there is also some boulder routes hidden in the forest and creek bed around the park. If you feel adventurous, go find some of the routes and have a blast Note: Do not tie into the bolt hangers at the top of Capen (or any hanger). ALWAYS clip a carabiner to the hanger and tie your webbing to the carabiner. |
Approach: | Next to MU campus in Columbia, Missouri: from the intersection of Rock Quarry Rd/College Ave with Stadium blvd, drive south on Rock Quarry Rd, turn left before the bridge towards Capen Rock Park and mulch site. |
Approach Time: | |
Latitude, Longitude: | |
Access Issues: | |
Rock Type: | Limestone |
Type of Climbing: | Top Rope |
Sun Aspect: | Morning Sun |
Routes
SequenceSequence numbers indicate the left (L) to right (R) order of the routes. | Rating | Route | Difficulty | Ascents |
---|---|---|---|---|
Not Named | V0 | 0 | ||
Roots | 5.7 | 5 | ||
The Open Book | 5.10a | 15 | ||
0 | China Doll | 5.8 V0 | 0 | |
0 | Jay's dyno | V3 | 1 | |
0 | Rock Garden | 5.9 | 2 | |
1 | Ape Man | 5.8 | 2 | |
1 | Butt Slammer | 5.6 | 0 | |
1 | Crazy Man | 5.14d | 0 | |
1 | Footloose | 5.11a | 10 | |
1 | Green Slime | 5.8 | 8 | |
1 | Hard Traverse | V4 | 0 | |
1 | Levitation | V5 | 0 | |
1 | Missouri Breaks (2) | 5.10c | 4 | |
1 | Mister Easy | 5.5 | 4 | |
1 | Next to Nubbin (1) | 5.11a | 2 | |
1 | Northwest Passage | 5.8 | 3 | |
1 | Roots | 5.6 | 2 | |
1 | Russian Vault | 5.6 | 0 | |
1 | Straight Up | 5.9 | 2 | |
1 | Sunshine | 5.9 | 1 | |
1 | Swingtime (1) | 5.11a | 6 | |
1 | The Open Book | 5.9 | 6 | |
1 | The Russian Vault (1) | 5.6 | 3 | |
1 | The Slot | 5.5 | 0 | |
1 | Three Horns | 5.8 | 1 | |
1 | Traverse | V0 | 1 | |
1 | White Lightning | 5.11b | 1 | |
5 | Flenner Sit Down (1) | V3 | 0 | |
12 | All or nothing | 5.11c | 2 | |
26 | Solution Pocket (2) | 5.10c | 1 |
Forum Discussions (2 posts)
Subject | Author | Replies | Last Post | |
---|---|---|---|---|
Capen Park Trip | freemeliberty | 3 | Jul 23 2011, 4:25 PM | |
New loose rock at Capen Park | madscientist | 3 | Oct 09 2007, 2:29 AM |