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Crystal Bay Boulder - 5.10c

Average Rating = 5.00/5 Average Rating : 5.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 0
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (2)
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Rock (Trad) (Toprope)
G
1
Bolts are placed at the top for top roping. Access to the top of the rock is easy to set this up.
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 5.00/5
  Rock Quality 5.00/5
  Scenery 5.00/5
  Fun Factor 5.00/5

Description:

It is a crack climb that forms a < shape across the rock, first to the left then to the right. It starts out with finger jams, and then moves to fist jams. The last ten feet or so of the crack is too wide for a fist jam and it becomes very physical.

Submitted by: farmlivingisthelifeforme on 2005-08-30
Last Modified: 2009-09-21
Views: 1612
Route ID: 69284

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2 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: americandream on 2012-10-17 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Excellent Pumpy Climb

The approach into the crack is surprisingly awkward, but once in the zigzag it is awesome.

The first part of the crack has a very nice lip all the way up. I mostly did a full layback with my feet jammed into the crack as I ascended. The next piece is a vertical jamming crack which was pretty standard.

The right to left crack has a bit of a shelf on the lower edge. At first, I did jams or underclings until it became clear that a standing playback with feet on the edge was far easier.

I did my first ascent in dark twilight, so I intend on returning for a red point.

Added: 2012-10-18

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: farmlivingisthelifeforme on 2008-06-10 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Burly

Excellent Climb! A must do.
Starts with a left leaning finger crack with small feet and widens to a cruiser hand crack where it changes direction to a right leaning crack, gradually widening to an OW to the finish. GREAT CLIMB!
Two ways I've seen to do the crux:
1. Stand on bottom part of crack and lieback it. Super balancy and I couldn't do it that way.
2. Reach way deep into the crack and find a spot small enough for a fist jam, stack your feet and squirm like a worm while breathing and sweating ferociously.

Added: 2009-09-10