Routes : North America : United States : Nevada : Red Rock Canyon : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Fiddler on the Roof
Fiddler on the Roof - 5.10d popular
Average Rating : 5.00 out of 5Route sequence (left to right): 12
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (14)
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Rock (Trad)
G
7
Doubles to 1.25", Singles to 2", 1.5 sets stoppers, large RPs.
800
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Description:
One of the best routes in Black Velvet, and in the park. Sustained, engaging climbing for hundreds of feet up the perfect shield that is the right side of the velvet curtain. Start 50 yards right of DoWT/PoD at some scoops below the obvious chimney 150' up. The first bolt is about 20' up. Pitch 1: Climb up, following the bolts up, then right to the base of the chimney pitch. 120', 5.9 Pitch 2: Climb up the obvious crack to a bolt, then step left into the chimney and follow it to the belay. Watch for stuck ropes! 110', 5.9 Pitch 3: Climb up and clip a bolt, then traverse into the recessed slab with a bolt in the middle, then climb up and right out of the slab, following the crack up for 20' before traversing right again, clipping a bolt and following features straight right to belay. 120', 5.10a Pitch 4: The money pitch. Climb straight up, following bolts to a traverse left, then up again to a hanging belay. 150', 5.10d Pitch 5: Climb straight up, following bolts to a belay. 120', 5.10b Pitch 6: Climb up and left, following bolts to a shelf- traverse left, clipping a bolt, before climbing straight up to belay. 120', 5.10b Pitch 7: Climb straight up to the bolt high above, then continue up to Turkey ledge and the final station. 120', 5.9+Descent Options:
Rappel the route with two ropes.
Submitted by: vegastradguy on 2010-05-04
Views: 3462
Route ID: 36829
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14 Ascents Recorded
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Read all 14 ascent notes
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Difficulty | 5.10d |
Safety Rating | G |
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Onsight ascent by: zcooky1 on 2014-02-26
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zcooky1
Awesome route, fast climbing.....if your quick you can even squeeze in 2 routes in a day since there so tightly packed together.
Added: 2014-02-26
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Difficulty | 5.10d |
Safety Rating | PG13 |
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Onsight ascent by: vegastradguy on 2010-05-04
(View Climbing Log)
fantastic
one of the best routes in red rock, outstanding climbing on every pitch, with the crux pitch being pure excellence on perfect stone. take a dbl rack to green camalot, and a #1 and a #2 with a set and a half of stoppers. large RPs come in handy to mitigate some run-outs.
Added: 2010-05-04
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Difficulty | 5.10c |
Safety Rating | PG13 |
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Onsight ascent by: jut on 2007-10-21
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p4 one of best face climbs ive ever done
this is a for sure must do. this climb is a solid 10 - i wouldn't call it an 11. p4 and p6 are phenominal. we had originally planed to do wild turkeys, but it was a gummer fest, so we opt'd for this - so glad we did. gear materializes just when you want it and its good - the route is not "very run out" - just keep a cool head. nuts and small metolius are your friends - no need to double up on anything. best route of the trip, which included levitaiton 29, epinephrine and johnny vegas to solar slab. if you're in red rocks - do this climb!
ps: this route (wall) can be descended with one rope - you will just need to traverse around a bit. we did it in 8 raps with a one 60 meter. a bit epic - but totally doable.
ps: this route (wall) can be descended with one rope - you will just need to traverse around a bit. we did it in 8 raps with a one 60 meter. a bit epic - but totally doable.
Added: 2007-10-21
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Safety Rating | G |
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Onsight ascent by: franzr on 1999-03-30
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Best climb I've done at Red Rocks
This is certainly my pick for Red Rocks. It's significantly better than Cloud Tower, Levitation 29, etc. The pitch above the traverse pitch is absolutely perfect!
Added: 2007-03-30
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Hang Dog ascent by: ihuang on 2005-11-25
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Ascent Note
Rapped off after P4 because it was getting dark. Stiff for the grade, I thought.
Added: 2005-11-25