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Lone Star - 5.11a

Average Rating = 4.00/5 Average Rating : 4.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 22
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (1)
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Rock (Trad)
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10d
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 5.00/5
  Rock Quality 3.00/5
  Scenery 5.00/5
  Fun Factor 4.00/5


This Amazing line starts on the Yellow Rose of Texas and then breaks left off the top of the Texas Tower. Walk past Epineprhine about half a rope length to gain a big yellow left facing corner. You can start here or climb up a 5th class section to gain the start of the route. You will be pretty much heading up for the corner system that takes the right side of the tower. After the top of the tower is gained you will either down climb or do a short rappel down to gain a crack system. After climbing through the middl of the Texas Wall you will be heading up and right on a big ramp that will spit you out at the upper dihedral that marks the top portion of the route. Be ready for an adventure that will likely last all day. The route is going to be chalkless and the only bolts you'll clip will be star drives. There is a full route description on Mountain Project that was posted by Tom. If you are really wanting beta you will go there since any of the guide books out right now don't give shit for a description. I know this wall is hard to retreat from after you take off past Texas Tower because all of the belays require gear. One takes only a so, so stopper and a star drive to make you feel better. This route is about as big of an undertaking as the West Face of El Cap, with plenty of runouts epecially on the easier opening pitches. There are also some pretty runout sections of old school five ten. In other word this ain't no Levitation 29. A great effort for the time. The first ascent was done in a day.

Descent Options:

Descend as for epi.

Submitted by: vegastradguy on 2007-07-20
Views: 1545
Route ID: 56267

1 Ascent Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

  Difficulty 5.10d
  Safety Rating G
  Rock Quality
  Fun Factor
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: vegastradguy on 2010-04-13 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars good route

although i'd go up via texas hold 'em if i were to do it again- skipping the initial pitch which was the worst on the route in favor of the awesome pitches of texas hold 'em.

Added: 2010-04-13