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Pachyderm - 5.9

Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 0
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (2)
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gear and some bolts
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty (Not Rated)
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  Scenery (Not Rated)
  Fun Factor (Not Rated)


A serious route with a serious descent. A good pairing with Spare Rib for a day of fun if Crimson is too crowded. Near the base of the ramp is a prominent buttress with a varnished corner at the bottom left of it. At the top of this corner is a prominent scoop. This is your route. Pitch 1: Head up the chimney/corner to the scoop. 5.8+, 100' Pitch 2: Here, options present themselves. Originally, the route went left off belay and straight up to a bolted stance. However, the bolts are bad and pro is questionable. Off right looks easier, although it is unconfirmed. Pro is questionable, but there is at least two new bolts high on this side of the scoop. This is a judgement call. Either way, end up at a bolted stance about 100' up, 5.9. Pitch 3: Traverse to the right to a chimney. 5.easy, 50' Pitch 4: Head up the chimney until a nice ledge is reached. 5.7, 100' Pitch 5: Head straight up for a full rope length to the summit. (Optional belay about 50' below the summit). 195', 5.7 Descent: Drop into the gully to the west, being extraordinarily careful. One rope can be used for several raps until a chockstone is encountered with a steep drop off. From here, one double rope rappel will get you down, or alternatively, rap to an intermediate station far to the right. DO NOT USE Double rope raps for the middle rappel!!!!

Submitted by: vegastradguy on 2005-10-15
Views: 657
Route ID: 70892

2 Ascents Recorded

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Red Point Red Point ascent by: dominic7 on 2006-03-26 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

We just did the first pitch before it got dark. A very cool chimney. No bolts at the top. Had to leave a couple of nuts and a cordalette. Booty.

Added: 2006-03-26

Onsight Onsight ascent by: vegastradguy on 2005-10-15 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

good, although a bit spooky on the crux pitch. I'm still unsure of whether heading right and up is better than heading up first and then right. Good to pair this one with either Test Tube or Spare Rib for a nice day out.

Witnessed by: larryd
Added: 2005-10-15