This is a stellar route, probably the best on the wall. It's characterized by the large roof/corner in the middle of Angel Food wall. The crux is visible from the entrance of the tunnel on Tunnelvision. Lots of varied climbing, but the highlight is the offwidths. Start this climb on a ledge just down and left of the large chimney system about 300 feet right of Tunnelvision. The large chimney is Healy's Haunted House. Pitch 1: Cruise up the easy face climb until you reach the base of a large crack system. (Stop here if you have a 50m rope) Continue up this crack (offwidth) until you reach a decent belay stance (about 20' shy of the belay at Pitch 2). 5.7, 60m Pitch 2: Cruise up the crack to the belay stance, then step left into another crack system and follow this up to a large ledge. 5.6, 80' Pitch 3: Cruise up the face to the tree, belay above the tree (there's a good stance on your left). 60', 5.6 (Rope drag prevents these from being joined up. Run it out and it might not be so bad). Pitch 4: The crux pitch. Cruise up the slab directly above the tree, staying left of the chimney. After about 70', you will get to some cracks to put a piece in. Continue up to the base of the roof. Place a piece, then pull the roof, and continue up the offwidth for 100' to a small cave. 5.7R, 180' Pitch 5: Climb out of the cave and head left to the top. 120', 4th & easy 5th class. Variation: Instead of heading left after the last belay, go straight up the large crack in front of you to the summit. 120', 5.8 (50m notes: If you have a 50m rope, you'll have to belay at the base of the roof in order to have enough rope to get to the next belay. The stance isnt great, but there's enough placements for an anchor). From the top, head down and left into the gully system until you find a cairn, then follow those back to the base. There is a short downclimb involved, or you can do a short rappel.
Submitted by: vegastradguy on 2004-07-28
Route ID: 17182
I'd have to argue that this one is better than Tunnel Vision. The offwidth sections may be more run out, but they're definately less abusive to your ankles, knees, body etc... We had a large breakfast at the hotel and didn't get started till about lunch time, but even climbing as a party of three, after running pitches 2&3 (maybe it was 3&4, can't remember off hand) together we were back on track and topped out before dark (don't forget to call for late exit permit though). Rope drag from trailing 2 ropes, especially at the top) was a bit annoying. I had forgotten just how long and ugly the hike down was though. Ran into lots of big horn sheep at the bottom, very cool to see.
havent been on this one in years- it was a great return to an old classic. this one is not to be missed, but i would consider it a solid step up from tunnelvision, especially in terms of protecting it well and one or two of the anchors. also, dont be afraid of the 5.8 exit (the right hand of two cracks directly above the last pitch- its inline with the rest of the route and is more like 5.7. a big piece (#4.5 or #5 C4) is very handy on this route.