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Routes : North America : United States : New Hampshire

New Hampshire

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About New Hampshire:

New Hampshire, also known as the Granite State, is home to perhaps the best and most diverse climbing East of the Rockies. Scattered throughout this relatively small state are some of the East’s premier climbing destinations, whether you prefer trad, sport, bouldering, waterfall ice, alpine, or mountaineering routes. Whatever the season you opt to visit, you are sure to have a wide variety of vertical fun from which to choose!

For beautiful granite crags in a picturesque setting, the area surrounding North Conway in Mt. Washington Valley is hard to beat. Topping this list are Cathedral and Whitehorse Ledges, both located in Echo Lake State Park. Primarily a trad climbing paradise, these two cliffs offer some of the best crack, friction, and face climbing available anywhere. Neighboring cliffs such as Sundown, Band M, Humphrey's, and a host of others all offer a range of unique single to multi-pitch routes and are located just a short drive away.

Sport climbing came relatively late to the Granite State, however by the late 1980’s Rumney had begun to gain a following among the clip and go crowd. Access, at one time threatened, was secured in the 90’s by a large land purchase brokered by the Access Fund, who then turned the land over to the Forest Service. The Rumney Climber’s Association, who enjoy a wonderful working relationship with the NFS, manages climbing anchors and trail work. Today, Rumney boasts a wide variety of safely bolted climbs of all grades, including the highest concentration of 5.14 routes anywhere in the country.

For those who prefer crash pads to ropes, Pawtuckaway State Park is the heart of New Hampshire bouldering. Endless granite boulders wind their way through dense pine and hardwood forests, with literally hundreds of existing routes and huge potential for more. Rumney also contains a wonderful selection of problems, the metamorphic schist creating a totally unique bouldering experience.


SequenceSequence numbers indicate the left (L) to right (R) order of the routes. Rating Route Difficulty Ascents
Average Rating = 4.00/5 Shoe String Gully (5) WI3 1
Average Rating = 4.00/5 Thin Air (1) 5.6 1
0 Average Rating = 3.50/5 Chia WI3 2
0 Average Rating = 4.00/5 upper refuse (Cathedral Ledge) (2) 5.6 3

Forum Discussions (See all 22 posts )

  Subject Author Replies Last Post
With Replies Sport and Swimming location Phiggins 3 Jun 03 2013, 8:13 PM
With Replies Lost La Sportiva Miura At Rumney, Jimmy Cliff haiha607 2 May 21 2012, 8:16 PM
No Replies Lost keys either cannon or rumney 7/16-7/17 shoo 0 Jul 23 2011, 10:54 AM
With Replies Whats up with the falcons? Ronadon 4 Jan 15 2011, 7:04 PM
No Replies It's all about location! ryanc490 0 Sep 29 2010, 6:06 PM
With Replies Kids climbing near Franconia Notch? TradEddie 1 Jun 08 2010, 2:29 AM
With Replies sandwich notch? pullthegoalie 9 Jan 06 2010, 6:35 PM
With Replies New Guidebook for Southern New Hampshire gunkswest 9 Sep 30 2010, 1:36 PM
With Replies Any Bouldering near Winnipesaukee? BFantana 6 Aug 04 2009, 4:12 PM
No Replies Dr. No, rumney mark74 0 Jun 09 2009, 6:42 PM
With Replies Top Roping near Dartmouth Extant 3 May 27 2009, 7:23 PM
With Replies Old NH Guidebooks basilisk 2 Feb 18 2009, 2:06 AM
With Replies Educate me on North Conway scrapedape 17 Aug 27 2008, 5:54 PM
With Replies lost climbing shoes yankeeclimber 5 Dec 12 2009, 2:09 AM
With Replies lost wedding rings- pawtuckaway hugitout 1 Jul 14 2008, 9:21 PM