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Condescender - 5.11a

Average Rating = 4.00/5 Average Rating : 4.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 0
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (1)
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Rock (Trad)
3 bolts, rack to 2"
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure 3.00/5
  Rock Quality 4.00/5
  Scenery 3.00/5
  Fun Factor 4.00/5


Start where the Consolation Prize trail meet the cliff. Make hard moves past the first bolt (crux) to a sloping ledge that isn't as comfortable as it looks. Shimmy right to a broad open book with dike rock and up. After the third bolt, move up and right to join a flake system then make tough (5.9 runout) slab moves up and left to a one bolt belay in the shattered hole. Sykes' guidebook mentions that the second pitch (5.9) is rarely done on account of hefty runouts above old 1/4 inch bolts. Maybe they've been updated since publication?

Descent Options:

Rap from the single bolt or continue up another pitch to a more modern station.

Submitted by: lucander on 2011-07-17
Views: 385
Route ID: 109376

1 Ascent Recorded

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  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating PG13
  Rock Quality
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: lucander on 2011-07-16 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Condescender

Climbing wasn't so bad once I remembered how to do slab moves. Crux is low, but there's lots of testy climbing on this long pitch. Left a cold shut at the belay bolt. A nice way to wrap up the day after bailing below the last pitch of Moonshadow (dihedral had more grass in it then my lawn.)

Added: 2011-07-17