Start where the Consolation Prize trail meet the cliff. Make hard moves past the first bolt (crux) to a sloping ledge that isn't as comfortable as it looks. Shimmy right to a broad open book with dike rock and up. After the third bolt, move up and right to join a flake system then make tough (5.9 runout) slab moves up and left to a one bolt belay in the shattered hole.
Sykes' guidebook mentions that the second pitch (5.9) is rarely done on account of hefty runouts above old 1/4 inch bolts. Maybe they've been updated since publication?
Rap from the single bolt or continue up another pitch to a more modern station.
Submitted by: lucander on 2011-07-17
Route ID: 109376
Climbing wasn't so bad once I remembered how to do slab moves. Crux is low, but there's lots of testy climbing on this long pitch. Left a cold shut at the belay bolt. A nice way to wrap up the day after bailing below the last pitch of Moonshadow (dihedral had more grass in it then my lawn.)