after a scramble up to the base of the ramp, climbing the ramp in two pitches is very straightforward. ramp ends at 2 bolts (which form part of the rappel descent) traverse to a ledge, set up anchor and belay past what is described as a 'bouldering move' to a chimmey leading to the final belay ledge. the last pitch is the best pitch on this climb. riddled with old pins, climb the right facing corner where the pro is excellent. the pins will lead you to climb out towards the arrete, but i opted to place my own piece and stay in the corner, where some good stemming moves could be had. the rappel from the top lead back down to the grassy ledge, then down from the 2 bolts, to a tree on gourmet ledge (put knots in your rope!) and down twice more to the deck. take care to place any packs/items in an obvious place to cut down on recovery time prior to hiking out of the talus. enjoy!
Submitted by: smearer on 2007-09-30
Route ID: 68245
The last pitch made the climb, the 4th/5th class first pitches with slick grass were the crux. You can do 4 rappels straight from the top (2 sets of bolts, and 2 trees), you don't have to rappel the ramp. The 2 ramp pitches of 5.3 can be done with one rope stretching 60 meter pitch. The 5.4 pitch can be rope stretched to 60 meter's to the second set of bolts (above the first set on the grassy ledges), makes the 4th class a trail. Pitons lead the way through the last 2 pitches. We bushwacked from the summit rock.... mistake, took the climbers trail out. Has reflective markers and lots of small cairns. Adds about 1.5 miles if you're coming from the ADK Loj. The Loj parking was full, so we had to park a mile down the road making for an ~15 mile day with 6 pitches of climbing and 4 full length 60 M rappels. A few parties on the route held us up for a few minutes. The pitons on the last pitch lead out twice to the arete, makes the route super exposed and alot of fun, keeps you out of the off-width. The off-width is nice too, easy laybacking or arm-baring.