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Moss Island

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About Moss Island:

The most popular area at Little Falls with climbs for everyone of every ability. Park under the Theodore S. Wind Bridge or drive in town and park. Youíll need to anyway for a permit unless you have a season pass. While in town locate the McDonalds and drive past its entrance (one way street). Turn right after its entrance on 167. Take your first left on Elizabeth Street-East Ramp and follow that street. This becomes South Ann Street. This crosses the Mohawk River and continues to a parking area near a hydro power plant.

Some long runners will be needed for some Top Rope set-ups. You can easily scramble up to set climbs on the east end of the outcrop as well as the islandís west end. There are many 3rd and 4th class descents as well.

Note: The Permit System has been stopped as of March 2010. You now can climb there for free. Stay tuned for this to get changed. Once I am notified by the mayor I will change this here.

The cliffs are composed of Precambrian granite basement like that of the Adirondacks. The black surface of the rock is a Manganese Oxide weathering rind and is not the true color of the unweathered rock. Some of the graffiti was covered with dark paint to match the surface of the rock and does affect the friction of certain routes. The afternoon sun does heat the very dark rock so this is a prime area for early spring climbing as well as late fall climbs. Climbing in late March with green grass below your feet is a common occurrence.
Approach: From the East (Albany) take Rt 90 to exit 29a. Approx time 1hr hour. From the West (Syracuse) take Rt 90 to exit 29a Approx time 1 hr 15 minutes After the toll booth drive about 2 miles to the City of Little Falls to get your permit at the Town Clerk or Fire Department (Main Street) The actual climbing is left of the big bridge (Wind Bridge) that crosses the Mohawk River.
Approach Time: 5 minutes
Latitude, Longitude: 43.04029, -74.85326
Access Issues: This is NYS Thruway Property under the management of NYS Canal Corporation. Please respect any and all requests made to you by the NYS lockmaster on duty.
Rock Type: Gneiss
Type of Climbing: Trad
Sun Aspect: All Day Sun

Forum Discussions (5 posts)

  Subject Author Replies Last Post
With Replies Necessary gear for top rope setup JakubBujak 5 Apr 04 2012, 7:11 AM
With Replies Cindy - Tighten Nut freedan 2 May 30 2011, 3:40 PM
With Replies Camping TheProducer 2 May 05 2011, 12:33 AM
With Replies Moss Island help vandal 3 Mar 26 2013, 3:54 PM
With Replies OLd time climbin' Trad.titon 3 Jun 19 2009, 1:10 AM