Skip to Content
Search for
Routes : North America : United States : New York : Upstate : The Gunks : The Trapps : Land's End Direct

< Previous | Next >

Land's End Direct - 5.9

Average Rating = 3.00/5 Average Rating : 3.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 180
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (11)
Premier Sponsor:
Rock
PG. either #3 (OK) or #3.5 (better) Camalot (old sizes) helpful (but not both)
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure 3.43/5
  Rock Quality 2.71/5
  Scenery 3.29/5
  Fun Factor 3.29/5

Description:

Start at the green face 40 feet right of Overhanging Layback, and just right of the brushy and perpetually wet bit. Climb up into the left edge of the arch above, and pull through 1st overhang to a stance (5.9-). Continue straight up past a thin, spooky flake to a right facing corner capped with a roof. Undercling right under roof (large cam helpful) and levitate right to a hold by the small tree. (crux, can be A0/A1'd.) Continue up on easier rock to build an anchor directly over difficulties, or angle up right to the fixed anchor. The second pitch is worth doing, goes through a 5.9 roof at a U-shaped notch above

Submitted by: feedmerocks on 2006-10-23
Last Modified: 2007-02-17
Views: 865
Route ID: 68106

Record Ascent Add Photo Add to Hit List Bookmark

11 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent
GoRead all 11 ascent notes

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating PG13
Onsight Onsight ascent by: cracklover on 2015-08-30 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Okay first pitch, great second pitch

Lucky me, I got P2!

Added: 2015-08-31

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: gblauer on 2012-03-17 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Interesting climb

This is not "G" rated. There is a scary runout on the first pitch. Interesting moves as you exit the second roof.

Added: 2012-03-17

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: gathompson1 on 2011-10-10 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Tough Layback

Tough second layback section.

Added: 2011-10-10

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: wet_buffalo on 2009-07-08 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars fun climb

Do the second pitch worth it for sure

Added: 2009-07-30

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: local_guy on 2009-05-10 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars nice through most of the second pitch

gets a little dirty at the top of p2. the roof at the beginning of that pitch is cool, and a neat feature.

Added: 2009-05-16

... Read all 11 ascent notes