Routes : North America : United States : North Carolina : Central : Moores Wall : The North End : Shadow Dance
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Shadow Dance - 5.11d
Average Rating : 4.56 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (10)
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Rock
Traditional (with brass if you've got it).
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Description:
Left of nutsweat. Can lead first half (10c) to a nice station then lower.
Submitted by: forkliftdaddy on 2005-10-19
Views: 1741
Route ID: 60660
Most Recent Photo
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10 Ascents Recorded
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Read all 10 ascent notes
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.10c |
| Safety Rating | G |
Red Point ascent by:
redpoint of P1
It's all there. Lieback, stem, and crimp through exciting engaging moves. I used a ton of my smallest gear on this one but a piece (red ballnut) I sussed out on a follow-up run on TR seemed like a nice alternative to the dubious RPs I used at the start of the slabby bit. Still not sure of the best nuts to use there. The powerful lieback start is fun and well protected although the thin face (and slight overhang at one point) is where the true action is. Fantastic! I think one of the hardest parts is getting yourself moving onto the face from the ledge midway up... could be my favorite route at Moore's even though it's a bit scary.
Added: 2014-06-02
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.10c |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality |  |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Onsight ascent by:
shadowdance
real nice! great moves. pitch 1 only.
Added: 2011-10-16
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.10c |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Scenery |  |
Brilliant legs
oh yeah
Added: 2011-10-09
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
fun
sweet route, crux had me shaking, must do for a 10 climber at Moores
Added: 2011-09-28
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.10c |
| Safety Rating | G |
Top Rope ascent by:
TR
Followed P1, got a clean ascent following Chris's Redpoint (well done!) Classic route. One crux getting past the first bulge and after a decent rest and some easy stuff to thin and stemmy. Hardest move for me was the second to last move from the topout - ie finagling a move to the jug at the top of the corner. Protects well, albeit with small gear. Nothing larger than a .75 BD (possible 2 placement) and small to mid-size stoppers.
Added: 2011-07-18
