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The Anguish of Capt. Bligh - 5.11b

Average Rating = 4.67/5 Average Rating : 4.67 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (29)
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offset aliens, medium nuts, medium cams (.5"-1.5"), brass and small wires helpful
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.00/5
  Rock Quality 4.80/5
  Scenery 3.80/5
  Fun Factor 4.20/5


Bouldery, balancy, reachy start with good micronuts leads to a fun arete.

Submitted by: forkliftdaddy on 2005-06-08
Views: 2171
Route ID: 45537

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29 Ascents Recorded

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  Difficulty 5.11c
  Safety Rating G
Red Point Red Point ascent by: mjwestla on 2014-07-16 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars no anguish, only joy today

First clean 11 on gear. Great route with tricky gymnastic movement between small if good stances for gear. Small stoppers (big brass work well) and yellow and green alien sizes do well to protect the start if you can avoid blocking your handholds. More small to mid-size above. Make sure to protect well as the business starts right off the deck and just nuts might zipper. Multiple thin and powerful moves, it's no gimme and not totally over when you turn the arete although you can get a good rest there.

Added: 2014-07-17

  Difficulty 5.11b
  Safety Rating G
Red Point Red Point ascent by: gogalac on 2014-07-11 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Anguish

Awesome climb. Take small nuts and mid size cams for top.

Added: 2014-07-11

  Difficulty 5.11b
  Safety Rating G
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: mjwestla on 2013-06-16 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars TR

Very nice variety of fun moves that aren't so obvious. Tricky and powerful in places with a fun finish. Watched someone climb this a while back and thought there wasn't much gear but upon closer inspection I see that is not so. Got a sequence and gear sorted now, so now it's on the lead list!

Added: 2013-07-05

  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating G
  Rock Quality
  Fun Factor
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: twdexter on 2012-08-13 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Didn't think I could do it, ever.

The feet were killing me, but this time I did (on TR, of course). With that win under my belt, it's time to move on to the gear. Looks like good gear where you need it, just have to figure out how to get it placed without blowing it.

Added: 2012-08-13

  Safety Rating G
Red Point Red Point ascent by: sf on 2009-11-06 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars ground-up

short but aesthetic
nice sequences
takes gear pretty well, but cruxy near the ground

Added: 2009-11-09

... Read all 29 ascent notes