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Routes : North America : United States : Oklahoma : Southwest : Baldy Peak-Quartz Mt

Baldy Peak-Quartz Mt

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About Baldy Peak-Quartz Mt:


Most of the routes are on a large dome of granite called Baldy Point that rises over 500 feet over the surrounding wheatfields. Developed for the most part by Duane Raleigh and cohorts (Bill Thomas, Jimmy Ratzlaff, Jon Frank, Terry Andrews and the like) in the late 1970s, the routes at Quartz have been compared to routes at Tuolumne by Doug Robinson, who wrote a story about Oklahoma climbing in the mid 80s. The majority of the routes are long pitches of run-out mind-bending face climbing on beautiful quality granite. Almost all of the routes were put up using ground up traditional ethics and bolted by hand from stances. All of the old bolts have been replaced by nice 3/8 inch bolts over the past five years.

Quartz has the longest routes in OK, so if youíre jonezín for some long slab faces, this is the place. Itís a classic place, quiet and secluded; a crowded day at Quartz is seeing another car parked in the lot. Bring a strong mind and solid footwork.


You'll find a good concentration of bouldering at Quartz Mountain. Most of the problems are easy (V0- or 5.7-5.9) to moderate (V0-V2 or 5.9+-5.10+) but there are a few hard problems that will send you sailing. The front side boulders consist of slab-like problems requiring delicate footwork and balance. The granite is tightly compact, the crystals very small, and the climbs have been repeated many times over so some of the holds are slick and rounded. The awesome thing about the boulders here is that all the landings are great! No worries with uneven ground, protruding rocks, or other obstacles. Still, bring a pad because because some of the problems are tall enough that you'll be happy that you have a soft landing.

On the back side you'll find less of the slabby stuff and more face climbing and a few overhanging problems. While most of the front side boulders are well documented, rated and named, the same is not true of the back side boulders, they have seen much less traffic and there is no consensus on names or ratings. For this reason it is difficult for me to document each individual problem other than by giving directions to the problem and a short synopsis of what the problem yields and how hard to seems to be. The back side problems tend to be more coarse in nature, which means the rock is sharper and harder on the fingers. It requires some toleration of pain if you are not used to crystals of granite biting into your fragile fingertips but once you start climbing these problems you will grow accustomed to the friction (pain) and use it to your advantage. Keep in mind, a "good hold" on the back side boulders is usually a sharp hold, just get used to it.

Nearest town or city: Quartz Mountains-Altus
Directions: You'll find Quartz Mountain in the Southwest corner of Oklahoma near Altus, Oklahoma. From 283, you'll turn at the big old Quartz Mt. sign, and as you look west, look for the last outcropping of granite -- that's the climbing. Follow the 2 lane paved road north past the golf course and over the bridge, you'll hit a fork in the road. Go left, and follow it for about 3 miles. As you travel westbound, you'll be able to see Quartz from across the farm fields. Hang your first right onto another crappy paved road, then your next right on a dirt road. Follow it down and to the right. Take the first left into the parking lot and you're here.
Latitude, Longitude: 34.89788, -99.33314
Access Issues:
Camping: Yes
When to Climb: Autumn
Quantity of Climbs: Year

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Forum Discussions (6 posts)

  Subject Author Replies Last Post
With Replies climbing Quartz Mountain? galenmacd 1 Oct 28 2011, 9:24 PM
With Replies Directions to quartz mountain unga123 3 Jan 22 2011, 5:24 AM
With Replies Anyone climbing Quartz Mountain the beginning of August? willwill 2 Jul 24 2010, 2:23 PM
With Replies top roping mikep707 1 Dec 29 2011, 11:19 PM
With Replies Little Reality 5.10d?? hendew 2 Nov 19 2005, 12:38 AM
With Replies Bolting at Quartz Mountain, OK berkly 57 Nov 14 2004, 4:10 AM