Routes : North America : United States : Oklahoma : Southwest : Baldy Peak-Quartz Mt : The Headwall : Bourbon Street Traverse
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Bourbon Street Traverse - 5.7
Average Rating : 4.25 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (17)
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Rock
Bolts and gear
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Description:
Starts on a small dirt ledge at the far left of the Headwall. The ledge has eroded away in large part, so now you either have a 5.9 start directly over the bolt or slightly to the left or you can start about 15 feet to the right and then traverse left into the route. Follow the bolts up and then across an arching seam to the right and then up and to the bottom of a big ear with a wide crack. Belay here if doing the route in two pitches. Medium and large cams are needed for a secure belay. Lieback up and around the ear and then either follow the crack to the top or move out to the right on the face and up. A small cam or medium nut placement is available once you move out from the large crack. I like to do the route in one long 200 foot pitch. Use long slings on the bolts and only place a medium size cam in the bottom of the large crack and flip the rope to the outside of the ear once you're around it. I do this route almost every time I'm at quartz. F.A. Bernie Wire, Greg Schooley (1978)
Submitted by: okieterry on 2005-08-15
Views: 1182
Route ID: 20431
17 Ascents Recorded
Record an ascent
Read all 17 ascent notes
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.8 |
| Safety Rating | R |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Onsight ascent by:
none
none
Added: 2011-04-13
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | |
| Safety Rating | PG13 |
Top Rope ascent by:
one long pitch
really enjoyable climb. happy that i didn't let myself get sucked into the wide crack
Added: 2010-04-03
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | |
| Safety Rating | G |
fun
classic
Added: 2007-11-05
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.8 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Great line.
Squirmed the chimney with no big gear. Took it to the top before getting in a single cam. Secure the whole way at the Fall Gathering. Loved the first pitch too.
Added: 2007-11-05
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.8 |
| Safety Rating | R |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
lead it
fun climb.
Added: 2007-04-26
