Routes : North America : United States : Oklahoma : Southwest : Wichita Mountains : Crab Eyes : Moby Dick
Previous
Moby Dick - 5.12a
Average Rating : 5.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (2)
Premier Sponsor:
|
Rock
Gear and Bolts
|
|
||||||||||||||
Description:
West FaceFA by Russell Hooper, Marcus Garcia, and Terry Andrews. Bolted by Terry. Located in a small dihedral system on the south end of the west face - Start in the easy dihedral and place gear for pro, then move left and follow bolts up and then over an overhang to the top of the cliff and anchors. Direct start has one bolt and has been done two ways! One way is to start a few feet left of the bolt and to climb the arching crack, clip the bolt, then head up (Marcus). The other way is to start a few feet right of the bolt and face climb up to the bolt and then up (Terry). Both about 12c.
Submitted by: okieterry on 2005-09-06
Views: 1196
Route ID: 17490
2 Ascents Recorded
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.12b |
| Safety Rating | G |
Red Point ascent by:
with purple hair guy from sante fe gym
got the top with the original crack start. then later got the direct hard start by itself (didn't link with top). top roped this climb a lot before i put the bolts in! broken holds at the top has made this climb harder than before i bolted it!!
Added: 2007-01-20
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | |
Ascent Note
Notes: Some holds may have degraded at the crux exit bulge? Seems a lot harder than .12a? Still a fun route to do at 5.11 / A0... though I'm going to get that crux yet!
Added: 2006-10-31
