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Scary Okie - 5.10b

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(5.10b / s / 70ft / gear .4in to 3.5in, natural belay) Climb the right side of the buttress. Start on steep, angular jugs, and pull, highball boulder style (5.9), to a stance beside a tabletop-ledge-like affair (gear 2in). Gain the ledge, on less than positive holds, dink in pro in the somewhat reluctant horizontal, and prepare for the business. Continue up the corner to the roof. Maneuver left, under the roof, and then up, on committing moves (5.10b), gaining height to maneuver back right, obtaining the ledge-stance above the roof. Climb easier terrain up, then left and up, following a seam-crack to the summit. Due to a combination of scruffy rock, and either limited, or less than charitable orifices, the protection up to the roof makes one labor for it, and probably warrants a serious (s) rating for the grade. The best gear (.5in) on the route, while limited, appears just when you need it most, at the crux roof. The name says it all. (FA: Jimmy Forester, Ryan Ray / 2004)

Submitted by: jimmyray on 2006-09-07
Views: 590
Route ID: 79555

1 Ascent Recorded

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Red Point Red Point ascent by: jimmyray on 2006-10-31 (View Climbing Log)

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Added: 2006-10-31