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Black Magic - 5.10c

Average Rating = 4.00/5 Average Rating : 4.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 0
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (2)
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Greg Orton and Harold Hall
Rock (Sport)
18 quickdraws,
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure 4.00/5
  Rock Quality 4.50/5
  Scenery 3.50/5
  Fun Factor 4.00/5


P. 1 From the waterfall/stain follow bolts up and right through choss and munge to a two bolt belay. It's a thoroughly repulsive pitch but it gets you in the arena. (5.8) p. 2 Move the belay across the grassy gully and follow a nearly 200 foot line of widely spaced bolts up the mercilessly steep and unrelenting wall. Small holds and little natural rests make this climb seem much more diffifult than the 5.10 b given to it by Hall and Orton. p. 3 Straight up the bolts (10.c) but can be avoided by stepping left to a different bolt line that send a fun .10a roof on a huge lieback. A #3 camalot helps here. p. 4 Another ugly one (5.8). Climb up and right following natural weaknesses and clipping the occasional bolt. A #2 camalot or equivilent helps here. Belay on bolts or a tree as you join the Perigrine Traverse near its top. To finish up, downclimb the ugly stone, move the belay 100 yards through the woods and close in a filthy chimney.

Descent Options:

finish on Perigrine Traverse

Submitted by: lucander on 2005-08-23
Last Modified: 2010-07-01
Views: 1204
Route ID: 69111

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2 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating PG13
  Rock Quality
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: iching on 2010-06-29 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars very fun

Not sure how this route ended up getting an .11b rating on The guide only has the hardest move rated as .10c. This was a very fun route. I like the comment "not very sporty". The other fun route on this wall was Maltese Falcon. I'm not sure I'd lable either as a sport route, maybe "adventure climbs" would be more appropriate.

Added: 2010-06-29

  Safety Rating PG13
  Rock Quality
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: lucander on 2005-08-14 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

Crankin! Hot as hell, should have started in pm for shade.

Witnessed by: Jim Hammerlie
Added: 2005-08-14