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Chainsaw Psycho Dork - 5.11b

Average Rating = 4.43/5 Average Rating : 4.43 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right):
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (7)
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Jerry Messinger
Rock (Sport)
G
5 bolts
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.43/5
  Rock Quality 4.29/5
  Scenery 3.43/5
  Fun Factor 4.71/5

Description:

A great sport route that ascends an overhanging face. The lower part is tarnished a bit by some loose rock but the upper part is classic. Located on the west facing side of the Dominator. Stays dry in the winter.

Descent Options:

rap/lower

Submitted by: scottb on 2007-09-27
Views: 738
Route ID: 89218

7 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent
GoRead all 7 ascent notes

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: jmessinger5 on 2012-06-23 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Always a favorite

Glad to see so many enjoyed this route. Not sure why but it was always just a kick in the pants despite the crummy first 8 feet. The real story of the route name is a bit long to post here, but had to do with a strange grad student at UO in the mid 80s that everyone who lived in Carson Hall called "captain quaalude". "Don't mess with captain quaalude, he might be a chainsaw psycho dork" my friend Jim told me once.

Added: 2012-06-23

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: scottb on 2012-01-14 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Chainsaw

One of my go-to routes at the snake. Love it.

Added: 2012-06-14

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: l2ainmaker on 2010-05-02 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars When you know

This line will reaffirm all of the reasons you climb.

Added: 2010-05-03

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: souclimber on 2009-10-11 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars A Rattlesnake Classic

Sweet route including "Phil's crouch" and a 5th bolt knee clip. A little bit of everything combined to make a definite must-do at rattlesnake.

Added: 2009-10-11

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: ire510 on 2006-04-04 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Steep

Steep but holds are there. TR'ed this a bunch while living in southern Oregon, had to return after moving away before RP came.

Added: 2009-09-13

... Read all 7 ascent notes