This route is a masterpiece of lieback hell. By far one of the most classic routes you will ever climb at this grade. Follow the trail for a couple of hundred yards to a distinct left facing dihedral on dark red rock with a pronounced bulge about 30 ft. up. Lie back up to a small ledge to place the first piece then crank hard to the bulge (strongly suggest placing another piece (#2 Camalot) on the way to the bulge as this is where many people come off and nearly deck). Work left around the bulge with a wide crack to gain a good stance/ rest. Lie back another 30 ft. to the roof and work left around the roof and finish on top of second ledge. While rated 5.9+, this route is considered by many to be grossly sandbagged. *** UBG, here - this climb is hard if you lie it back as I did many years ago when I first led it. However, it really should be jammed in most of the harder sections and really is a 9. I do it every time I visit T-Wall and it's really, really good.
waited so long to get on this but it was so worth it! I fell at the crux onto my #3 trying to go for the fist/offwidth crack but then got through this by using the face holds. This route has great rests on it but I had to take before pulling the first mini roof bc I was so tired! used 1 5 after the crux, 2 4s and 2 3s for the big stuff
I was so intimidated by this route. It as and still is the hardest trad climb I've climbed to date. The crux is obviously the bulging dihedral hand rack but the problem is this thing doesn't let up. The "rests" are very difficult to use so you are just running it to the chains. When I got off this thing I collapsed on the ground, completely fulfilled, with an intense endorphin rush. Do it.