Rock Climbing Routes in The Salt Lake Slips, Big Cottonwood Canyon

Routes : North America : United States : Utah : Salt Lake - Utah Counties : Big Cottonwood Canyon : The Salt Lake Slips

The Salt Lake Slips

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About The Salt Lake Slips:

Nice shady wall next to the river. Very popular.

Note that there are two distinct areas here, both Salem's Lot and Witch Hunt are right next to the stream and large pine. The Italian Arete, Entre Nous, Thieving Magpie, and Roll The Bones are farther North on the obvious face, with a nice ledge at about 80'.

The areas popularity has resulted in typical overuse problems at the base of most routes here. Trees and vegetation are mostly gone, it is quite dusty as well.

Beware of loose rock on the belay ledge for Entre Nous, Thieving Magpie, and Roll The Bones, I witnessed a dinner plate size rock, dislodged when the party below pulled their rope, come down right in the middle of 5 un-helmeted climbers, only luck prevented serious injury. Keep your head up when you pull the rap/TR rope.

Also, there are some rarely done trad climbs squeezed between the two sport areas. They appear mungy.

A short tyrolean traverse is necessary (yes, necessary, don't jump in!) in the spring when runoff has swelled the stream to a raging torrent. Local climbers usually rig a rope between trees in early spring for the tyrolean. When top-roping, please top-rope off of opposed draws! The anchors should only be used to rappel. Have fun!

Approach:	Just a reminder: To access the Slips climbing area, please park up-canyon from the climbing and walk over the top of Storm Mountain Island from the pass northwest of the picnic grounds using the new trail the SLCA and Forest Service built in 2006. This short approach avoids the creek crossing, which can be dangerous, especially during high water. Please note that Tyrolean traverses set up across the creek are not allowed by the Forest Service and will be removed.
Approach Time:	2 Min
Latitude, Longitude:	Update
Access Issues:	The river
Rock Type:	Quartzite
Type of Climbing:	Sport
Sun Aspect:	Update

Routes

SequenceSequence numbers indicate the left (L) to right (R) order of the routes.	Route	Difficulty	Ascents
	Maudlin	5.7	5
	Nosferatu	5.10b	5
0	Salems Lot	5.10c	28
1	61 drops	V1	1
1	Abracadabra	5.5	2
1	Forgotten Ambition	5.9	5
1	Senseless Banter 5.9+	5.9	1
2	Witch Hunt (1)	5.10a	45
3	Italian Arete	5.6	64
4	Entre Nous	5.8	51
5	Thieving Magpie	5.7	52
6	Roll the Bones (1)	5.6	46