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Malan's - WI5

Average Rating = 4.00/5 Average Rating : 4.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 0
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (2)
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Screws & Rock gear, chains at right side top of P1
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty (Not Rated)
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure (Not Rated)
  Rock Quality (Not Rated)
  Scenery (Not Rated)
  Fun Factor (Not Rated)


The Ogden classic, first ascended in the early 1970's by G. Lowe (a man ahead of his time). This route requires many cold overcast days to form solidly due to its south facing nature. The lower right side is the easiest (WI3) and more sheltered area to climb with a set of chains below a small shrub approx 185' off the deck. As one moves left, difficulty increases to WI4+, and those planning an assualt on the grade 5 curtain should consider a belay at the cave on the left side (200'). P3 is a short ice cascade approx. 40' in length ~WI2+, gaining the hanging valley behind the waterfall. The walkoff would be ~150M up the drainage NNE, using the 3rd drainage to the east to gain the ridgeline. Drop into the gully SE, with a short 5.2 downclimb at the bottom to exit near the base of the climb. On clear days early starts are necessary, as the sun hitting the top of this climb will deteriorate the quality of the ice above P1 quite rapidly.

Submitted by: stymingersfink on 2005-12-20
Views: 722
Route ID: 72619

2 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: alpineice on 2004-12-18 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Malan's Waterfall


Added: 2007-12-18

Flash Flash ascent by: stymingersfink on 2005-12-18 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

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Added: 2005-12-18