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Cannery Row - 5.11b

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Route sequence (left to right): 8
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (0)
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Bob Loomis
Rock (Trad)
All nuts and small cams--recommendation--have a variety of small cams from several different manufacturers if possible--small nuances among cams makes a difference
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Immediately to the right (when facing the Wall) of a prominent 5.8 crack which spits the face is this climb. Starts as face climbing up to a small roof. If one wants, one can clip a bolt which actually protects the 5.8 crack to the left of this route. Surmount the roof and jam or lieback this flaring thin crack. I liebacked it from the left. In fairness I should say I fell several times on lead figuring this out--I tried jamming the crack straight on, coming at it from the right--neither worked. The protection was adequate, but not great--I equalized several small cams at the roof. I asked Arden Pete about the route's history and he told me that to his knowledge it had been cleaned but not freed. The name again honors the John Steinbeck tradition on this Wall, and hence the name of another Steinbeck novel. I actually led this belayed by Beau Carillo in the fall of 2005, but held off reporting it due to my self-censorship at time.

Descent Options:

Walk off or lower off on anchors for routes to either side.

Submitted by: spokanebob on 2007-10-17
Last Modified: 2010-11-02
Views: 438
Route ID: 89768