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West Arete - 5.8 D

Average Rating = 4.00/5 Average Rating : 4.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 0
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (1)
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Rock (Trad) Snow
Cams and stoppers
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure 5.00/5
  Rock Quality 3.00/5
  Scenery 5.00/5
  Fun Factor 4.00/5


This is the long fin that goes from glacier to summit on the west side of Eldorado peak. Approach is the same as the East glacier route. At the slabs in Rousch Creek basin aim for the notch between the Triad and Eldorado Peak. From there descend to the bottom of the Triad glacier. Do not try and cut across! Head north at the bottom of the glacier and cut across the talus around 5800. The arete is obvious at the bottom of the next glacier. Follow the glacier to the gully that leads to the arete proper. From there continue more or less along the arete. A short section traverses to a notch where fixed gear can be a good toprope. Then rappel into the notch and continue climbing around the ridge. Near the top things broaden to 4th and 3rd class climbing until you join the E. Ridge to the summit.

Descent Options:

Descend East Ridge.

Submitted by: jmeizis on 2015-12-03
Views: 524
Route ID: 115966

1 Ascent Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

  Difficulty 5.8 D
  Safety Rating PG13
  Rock Quality
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: jmeizis on 2015-07-07 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Big Route

Big route with a lot of terrain to cover. Would be psyched to have done it with more water.

Added: 2015-12-03