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North Face -

Average Rating = 5.00/5 Average Rating : 5.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 0
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (3)
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2 ice screws, 2 picketts, ice axe, crampons, rope
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty WI3 M3
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.50/5
  Rock Quality 3.00/5
  Scenery 5.00/5
  Fun Factor 5.00/5


Bush wack approach to the North Face, wind your way through seracs and crevasses. Climb up 45-55 degree slope. Climb up the Summit Pyramid, depending on conditions could be ice or rock climb. Decend glacier, bush wack back to the car.

Submitted by: highlander on 2005-11-12
Views: 932
Route ID: 71680

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3 Ascents Recorded

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  Difficulty WI3 M3 AD
  Safety Rating G
  Rock Quality
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: jmeizis on 2013-09-09 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Awesome

Crazy bushwhack. Apparently there is some flagging that leads you into a drainage that descends into the main valley. We didn't find it. Instead we bushwhacked from the White Salmon Lodge for about 4 hours before we came out onto the glacier.

We climbed the route the next day with a couple pitches of rock being the crux. We did this as a carryover to the Fisher Chimneys.

A couple things that are mislabeled on the map that you should really pay attention to so your final day isn't like hours with a tour nearly round the whole Shuksan Arm.
-The Hourglass is actually Hell's Highway. Either way it's the way to go down to the Fisher Chimneys
-Winnies Slide is mislabeled. It's actually the steep section of snow just below the Fisher bivi on the north side of the Shuksan Arm.
-Fisher Chimney's is mislabeled. We went all over the White Salmon Glacier to get to the mislabeling to find that wasn't it. This actually could of ended up pretty dangerous as we were out of food and all the up and down had us pretty wrecked. It is actually just after you come down Winnie's Slide and cross over a rock bench with some bivy spots. Don't go to the spot labeled on the map! It's way before that.

Once you get into the Fisher Chimneys it's pretty straightforward. If you're smart you'll arrange a ride or stash a bike at the Lake Ann trailhead.

Things were really cut up for us. Might bring more screws late season. We had 4 and used all of them and 2 pickets. Micro cams and ballnuts would be good protection for the rock section.

Added: 2013-09-18

  Safety Rating G
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: thatguyat99 on 2002-07-03 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars awesome

what a climb...great weather the day of the north face.
the route was in perfect shape. 2 minor injuries on the descent
to 2 in the party but made it out safely...beautiful.

Added: 2008-09-11

Onsight Onsight ascent by: highlander on 2002-06-10 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

Great climb, soloed the route car to car. Fun ice on the summit pyramid made for interesting climbing with a single axe.

Added: 2002-06-10