Routes : North America : United States : West Virginia : Roped Climbing : New River Gorge Region : New River & Tributaries : Endless Wall : Honeymooners to Fantasy Roof : Rock Lobster
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Rock Lobster - 5.10c
Average Rating : 4.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 0
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (3)
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Rock (Trad)
PG13
small cams, 3 #2 Camelots, pink tri-cam, small nuts. double ropes
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Description:
Just left of Bullet the New Sky arete. Starts in right facing corner at arete moves left 30 feet, then up and back right to a single bolt. Then straight up and slightly left to bolted anchors. Expect short runouts on marginal gear. Best with double ropes.
Submitted by: satch on 2011-06-07
Last Modified: 2011-06-21
Views: 1474
Route ID: 108995
3 Ascents Recorded
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.10c |
| Safety Rating | PG13 |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality |  |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Onsight ascent by:
Ed Begoon strikes again!
If you thought the slabbier, headier Party route was great, try this one. Continuously engaging route with good gear that's widely spaced at times. Only needed one hand-size placement, but double ropes would've been great. Slinging my leftmost gear long -- more gear even farther left was available -- proved good enough. Had I clipped the bolt and subsequent gear with 24" slings, the rope drag would've been fine.
Added: 2011-06-15
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.10c |
| Safety Rating | R |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Second ascent by:
Followed this
looks like a very scary lead. Hard 10 moved above thin sketchy gear. I was glad to be cleaning it.
Added: 2011-06-15
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.10c |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Red Point ascent by:
Great moves, heady route
Excellent face climbing with many technical gear placements. It's all there, just hard to get. Used Lowe balls, small offset aliens, small cams and 3 #2 Camelots. Recommend double ropes.
Added: 2011-06-07
