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Blotter is my Spotter - 5.7 A3+

Average Rating = 5.00/5 Average Rating : 5.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right):
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (1)
Premier Sponsor:
p1. F. Sanders 1989; p2-3 F. Sanders, P. Kingsbury, J. Kilroy Oct,4 2007
Rock (Trad) Aid
standard aid rack, beaks, rurps, z pins, lots of blades, gear to a 5 friend
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty (Not Rated)
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure 5.00/5
  Rock Quality 4.00/5
  Scenery 5.00/5
  Fun Factor 5.00/5


This First Pitch was first climbed in August, 1989 by Frank Sanders , solo. Pitch 1. (140ft, 5.7, A3) Free climb, then aid up the corner. As height increases, the crack diminishes. The final 1/3 of the pitch is accomplished on hooks, RURPS, "heads" and a few tied-off blades. There is air to catch, but nothing to hit, Really. A 3-bolt belay rewards your efforts. Pitches 2 & 3 were added in October 2007 by Patrick Kingsbury, Frank Sanders, with Faithful belays by Jessica Kilroy !! Pitch 2. (165ft, A2)Aid on up the very slender crack until a belay can be arranged at the point where the rock becomes more broken. This is a Long, Fun aid pitch that requires many, many Knife Blades (30+), Lost Arrows and a few bigger pieces for the belay and occaissional pocket. Pitch 3. (75ft, A3+/A4-,5.4)This one seems to be the CRUX of the climb. It is thin nailing, intersperced by large, rotten pods, through a couple bulges, until it is possible to free climb to a Very Solid Belay in the base of the Exit Chimney. (You need to take both Very Small & Very Large pieces on this one. Patrick recalls the pitch as going something like..."Baby Angle, #3.5 Camalot, Beaks, Beaks, Beaks, #4 Camalot, #2 Camalot, #5 Camalot(in a pile of Kitty Litter), #4 Camalot(in a similar pile), Beaks, Beaks, Beaks, RURP, RURP, RURP, Beaks, Beaks, Leeper-Z, Stopperhead, RURP, #2 Friend then unprotected 5.4 to the chimney belay" !!! Hats-Off to Patrick for a Bold and Innovative lead !!! Pitch 4. (110ft, 5.6) Follow the Kor Chimney that is the Finish to the Saber Route (First climbed by Layton Kor & Steve "Tex" Bossier on April 26, 1964). Essential Gear Standard Aid Rack + 10-RURPS, 10-15 Beaks, 5-Leeper-Z, 30+ Knife Blades,6-#4&5 Friends/Camalots.

Descent Options:

express way is the fastest rap down the tower

Submitted by: lightrack on 2007-10-30
Views: 2331
Route ID: 89580

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1 Ascent Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

  Safety Rating PG13
  Rock Quality
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: lightrack on 2007-10-04 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars kick ass!

stoked to help finish a classic aid route to the top!

'best piece on the third lead is a 5 friend in kitty litter..."

Added: 2007-10-12