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Mother #1 - 5.7

Average Rating = 3.50/5 Average Rating : 3.50 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (8)
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Pro to 4", medium to large cams / hexes. An offwidth piece (say 4.5 to 5 Camalot) is nice.
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 2.00/5
  Rock Quality 2.00/5
  Scenery 2.00/5
  Fun Factor 2.00/5


5.7+. This is the offwidth crack to the right of Balwdwin's Chimney. Starts as a large flared crack, the upper portion of the climb narrows to a more manageable hand/fist crack. Approximately 100', descent is from rap chains 40' to climbers right (w/ 60m rope), or continue to top and rap from the backside of the Parabolic Slab (see Nautilus photo at top of section listing).

Submitted by: holmeslovesguinness on 2004-08-11
Views: 1133
Route ID: 38039

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8 Ascents Recorded

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  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Rock Quality
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: dindolino32 on 2010-07-24 (View Climbing Log)

2 out of 5 stars Harder Than Hell.

This was a tough off-width climb. I am not terribly experienced in OW. 5.7 seemed like a good start for the weekend but man was I wrong. it was harder than "Finally" a 5.9 so I guess this was good motivation to work my OW technique. I had 2 #3s but 2 #4s and 2 #5's would have been nice instead of only 1. I also used the 6 on the chimney part. Thought I would puke with exhaustion at the end.

Added: 2010-07-26

  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: taxi00 on 2008-06-29 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars great

had to do the slab

Added: 2008-06-29

Onsight Onsight ascent by: slab-dyno on 2004-07-11 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

No comment

Added: 2004-07-11

Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: holmeslovesguinness on 2003-07-13 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

Oooowwww. What a beating - my first real offwidth at Vedauwoo, I have the battle scars to prove it. The hardest 5.7 I've ever lead - had to hang for a rest after the chimney moves and to go snag my big camalot just in case I needed it higher up on the route (which I didn\'t). Really an awesome climb, very nice line.

Witnessed by: Tom P
Added: 2003-07-13

Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: jaggedzealot on 2003-05-20 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

A good route, the rap off the hyperbolic slab is the best!

Added: 2003-05-20

... Read all 8 ascent notes