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Devils Tower

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About Devils Tower:

One of North America's finest free climbing areas, this area doesn't see as much traffic as its quality warrants, mainly due to its remoteness. Stupendous crack and stemming routes. Most people climb the first 1-2 pitches of routes due to poor rock quality near the top, but a handful of classic routes reach the summit. Make sure to sign the register at the top. Pitches at the Tower are LONG! Distances can be hard to judge here and pitches invariably are much longer than they look. A 60 meter rope is required to lead some pitches, and double rope rappels are required to descend almost every pitch on the Tower. A standard Devil's Tower rack will include doubles in cams up to 3 inches and a double set of stoppers, sometimes triples in the small to medium stopper sizes. Expect to place 15-20 pieces on some of the longer, more sustained pitches. Since the routes are almost always straight and do not wander, you can save the trouble of carrying 20 quickdraws by clipping gear with a single biner. Registration is required for climbing or even going above the boulder field. NPS also asks that climbers heed the Voluntary Closure in the month of June, out of respect for American Indians who carry out a number of ceremonies at the Tower in that month. NPS suggests that climbers park in the lower lot (off to the right when entering the parking loop). Prairie Falcons often nest at Devils Tower, so make yourself aware of any closures. Camping is available inside the Park (NPS) or outside (KOA). A unique and beautiful Bed & Breakfast is nestled at the base of the Tower. Although it is on private land(21 acres) you must drive through the Park to get to there. It is the closest residence (1/2mile) from the Tower. For Beta and more information please see
Nearest town or city: Hulett
Directions: From Interstate 90, exit at either Moorcroft or Sundance and follow the signs, 30 miles to Devils Tower
Latitude, Longitude: 44.59188, -104.71465
Access Issues:
Camping: Pay
When to Climb:
Quantity of Climbs: Lifetime

Topo Images

Friend of the Devil
No route specified McCarthy West Face Variant

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Bon Homme Variation
No route specified No route specified El Cracko Diablo
El Matador

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El Cracko Diablo

Forum Discussions (See all 32 posts )

  Subject Author Replies Last Post
With Replies guide book bman123 1 Apr 17 2013, 11:48 PM
With Replies Looking for Recommendation on Guide for Devils Tower smilam 3 Jul 21 2012, 1:54 PM
No Replies looking for a climbing partner for the tower visionquest 0 Jul 03 2011, 11:00 PM
No Replies Devils Tower Partner unrooted 0 Aug 30 2010, 6:41 PM
With Replies Durrance Route egrove11 5 Nov 27 2009, 4:24 AM
With Replies Devil's Tower and the Winds-- Late May - Mid June urbanpioneer 1 May 06 2009, 6:19 AM
No Replies Climb Today walldahl 0 Oct 07 2008, 3:26 PM
No Replies any local want to climb? onhighrock 0 Jul 21 2008, 4:44 PM
With Replies Durrance Route noremac 3 Jul 12 2008, 10:29 AM
With Replies El Cracko Diablo Rack elholando 10 Jun 23 2009, 10:49 PM
With Replies Devil's Tower and Heights? rockvaulter 7 Apr 10 2008, 3:52 AM
With Replies Sport climbing at Devil's Tower sporter 1 Jan 23 2008, 9:29 PM
No Replies An Audio Trip Report- The Durrance Route; Devils Tower, WY bigwally 0 Jan 08 2008, 12:27 AM
With Replies April Climbing at Devils Tower bigwally 6 May 12 2007, 2:36 AM
With Replies March Climbing at Devils Tower bigwally 1 Mar 23 2007, 7:09 AM