From the saddle between the Middle and South Teton, the route heads south up the NW Couloir. It is not very steep and even in early season the route can involve talus scrambling. In one or two sections an ice ax is nice to have. The peak can be linked with the Middle Teton on the same climbing day, or try the Nez Perce to South Teton traverse, part of the Grand Traverse.
Submitted by: hollyclimber on 2006-03-08
Route ID: 19869
In 1977 when I climbed it I thought that the NE Couloir was boring. So I stole the summit register and started to descend into avalanche canyon. The ridge was right next to the SE snow Couloir . The SE snow coulior is a good climb I had done a year earlier. When I climbed the SE snow Couloir. There was no chock stone on the crux because there was no chock stone there at the time. On the day that I stole the summit register off the summit I also pushed a big rock of the ridge to the SE snow couloir the rock slid down and got stuck and became the new the crux. After I pushed the rock into the gully I skated over some really cool icey Snow shoots and then climbed up mater naught point. And relocated the summit register on top. Matter naught point has a really good route on it starting at the lake. One of the upper pitches has a full pitch of quarts crystals that is unprotect. I had done some of the route in 76 with a rope and I did the Crystal pitch the day I put the south Teton register on Matter naught point. Very cool spot Matter naught. The south Teton summit is about as fun as jenny lake !!