I think we can obviously agree that the guide was a main accomplice, however hateful phrases like hanging someone doesn't do anyone any good. He may read this and doesn't need any more guilt or regret. The purpose of my post wasn't to blame anyone but more importantly point out that once again the main factor in an accident was complacency and lack of redundancy. As for the posts that say the fig 8 doesn't need a backup, it is probably true. But that 1 time that it is improperly tied DOES need a backup knot. Almost every climb involves weighting the rope to lower, so a properly tied knot is needed. Majid, please don't post anymore pointlessly negative or finger pointing posts on this topic. I'm sure your life record (as well as mine) is complete with many screw-ups, yours just luckily didn't have such horrendous outcomes.