Forums: Climbing Partners: US - East Coast: Re: [cragb] Dear Leap bristol, VT: Edit Log




cfnubbler


Nov 20, 2006, 2:27 PM

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Registered: Oct 31, 2003
Posts: 628

Re: [cragb] Dear Leap bristol, VT
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The old aid route you mentioned isn't really that old...about 10 years at most, if memory serves. It was a fun rope-solo diversion on a partnerless day. With some scrubbing, it will go free, and be a fun roof crack problem.

People have been climbing on Deer Leap in Bristol since the early 70s at least. I'm not personally aware of any activity prior to that, but I'm sure there was some.

You'll find that the quartzite is extremely compact and has very few, if any, continuous crack systems. The face climbing potential is certainly intriguing, but the smooth and relatively featureless nature of the rock leads me to think that entry-level will be 5.11 off vertical / steep slab climbing.

A friend and I also did a superb ice route there 2 years ago. It's not in often, but when it is, you can't miss the stiking thin ribbon of ice from Rt. 116. We did it as a single 45m pitch, but it could easily and logically be done as 2 short pitches as well. It catches a ton of sun, so it's rarely in, but when it is, it's a great line. I'd call it thin grade 4. Bring stubbies and a modest rock rack.

PM if you want to explore up there. I'd be interested.

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(This post was edited by cfnubbler on Nov 20, 2006, 2:30 PM)



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Post edited by cfnubbler () on Nov 20, 2006, 2:30 PM


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