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Re: [jt512] What should I buy? Cam or hexes/tricams:
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scrapedape
Dec 19, 2006, 10:51 PM
Views: 2937
Registered: Jun 24, 2004
Posts: 2392
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jt512 wrote: I've never climbed at Seneca, but I've climbed a bunch of other places, and really can't imagine a route on which I'd prefer to have hexes over cams. Do people climbing mid-5.10 and harder routes at Seneca really prefer to place hexes over cams (and I'm not counting the old-school hardmen who have been placing hexes for 30 years)? Even if the placements were technically better for hexes, I would think that that would be trumped by the relative ease of placing cams. On a strenuous route, you don't want to have to fiddle around finessing a hex into place when you could "just slam in" a cam. Jay sky7high wrote: Thanks a lot for your responses Someone asked about the type of cracks. There's smooth vertical parallel cracks and also some rough cracks that are a little bit inclined. The width ranges from large fingers to chimeneys. The thing is, I want to start leading easy single-pitch routes with my own gear as soon as I can, since my mentor is not always there. I have practiced placing pro for quite a while now, and I feel confident placing nuts and cams. My reasons for wanting cams: They are much more versatile Easier to place-don't get too tired if on a lousy stance I have more experience placing them My reasons for wanting hexes/tricams: I could get a lot more, which means I can have enough for climbing soon I want to get better at placing passive pro With more gear, I can protect more types of cracks
I also know that a lot of people will never lead 5.10 at Seneca, or even 5.9.
I also know that the OP was looking for gear that would enable him to get out and start leading *easy* routes very soon. In my opinion, 60 or 80 bucks for some hexes is not a bad investment if it means that you can start climbing on your own rack now rather than in 6 months, especially since those hexes could be a key part of your rack for a couple of years - even if you eventually outgrow them.
I also understand that Seneca is a bit unique in the rock quality and features, and that many people would say that hexes are more useful there than at some other crags. Which brings us back to the question of where the OP is climbing. Hexes may not be so useful in "smooth vertical parallel cracks," but they may well be handy in "rough cracks that area little bit inclined." Also, the smooth vertical parallel cracks may not be the easiest routes at the crag, i.e. the routes the OP plans to start leading.
I am definitely not trying to start a flame war with you Jay, or with anyone else, nor am I trying to start a pissing contest, nor am I trying to act like I know more than I do. But, as someone who is closer to the "new leader" level like the OP seems to be (and by "closer to" I mean "squarely in"), I think I offer a different perspective, one that may get forgotten by climbers who have been in the sport for many years. I can say that the $65 I invested in a half set of hexes (get 'em on sale!) has payed huge dividends. If I had to make the choice again, I would once again buy the hexes rather than, say, one #2 Camalot. I now have half a dozen cams on my rack, but I still place at least one hex on nearly every pitch - including routes up to 5.8. But even if I never used them again, it would still have been money well spent.
(This post was edited by scrapedape on Dec 19, 2006, 10:52 PM)
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Post edited by scrapedape
() on Dec 19, 2006, 10:52 PM
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