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Re: [btreanor] Utah Ice Conditions:
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stymingersfink
Dec 31, 2006, 2:28 AM
Views: 7432
Registered: Aug 12, 2003
Posts: 7250
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Yesterday drove past Ogden on the 15, was able to see the top of malan's was still hanging around... if you're up for a WI5 lead you may get the first ascent of the season. Get there early to beat the sun.
This morning my partner drove down provo canyon on the way to santaquin, reports that stairway is fatter this week than last week (when it was climbing pretty fat already). He was tempted to hit up PND, but didn't bring rock gear, so SOL. With the exception of the Fang, all climbs on south side are in climbable condition.
We went down to Santaquin, where Candlestick looked 90% in (the top looked like a death-trap, more so than usual) ACT's curtain was 20' short of touching down, but if one was up for some M8-ish climbing to reach the ice, it appeared sol-ID!
White Angel of Fear is getting it's wings, the upper dagger is ~ 15 -20ft shy of touching down, the lower pitch is in need of some moisture, though one might mix it up if one were desperate to put themselves in harms way. Here's hoping the new year remains cold enough to keep it forming, with enough moisture to feed it.
The top of Ricochet had a dagger hanging over the exit, if one were looking for some serious M-climbing.
We soloed up Squashead, it was some nice firm ice, if a bit chopped in places... At least the majority of it was dry.
Rapped off the back side to do Back-Off, there was another party's leader about half-way up the center (PM me Nick), so I took the left side... it was running with water in places, snow-covered chandelier ice in others. I felt like I was soloing it, as my screws felt like junk, but Matt said they had refrozen in place pretty well so they may have held if tested.
Get Back On It had a dusting of snow, it didn't look to have an ice-glaze though. I've never climbed it, so don't know what climbable conditions for it are, but I wouldn't have seen a climb there if Matt hadn't pointed out where it SHOULD have been.
Tomorrow planning on a run in to check on conditions at Stewart's Falls, then get some bc skiing in with some friends who came in from out of town. If anyone could save me the trip I would appreciate it!
(This post was edited by stymingersfink on Dec 31, 2006, 9:23 AM)
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