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Re: [Power_Tie] First come first serve?:
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redpoint73
Feb 6, 2007, 8:20 PM
Views: 6275
Registered: Aug 20, 2002
Posts: 1717
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The most useful rule is "be cool to others". Most of the time, people are reasonable with each other and can work things out w/o having to resort to climbing rules. Even so, there is no "leader takes precedent over TR" rule in any region I have climbed. I can see isolated instances where a team may want to head up a multi-pitch route, and a big group has a TR setup at the first belay point. In that case, it would make sense to let the leader go. But even then, there is no hard and fast rule.
I have seen big groups become a problem at crags. Very often, there are ropes that go unused for long periods of time, which is in bad style. 4 ropes for 10 people is totally reasonable. But even so, with a guided group it almost inevitable that ropes will go idle. Either there will not be enough competent belayers, the clients will want to watch/listen to the guide to pick up tips, or some of the clients will get tired and stop climbing, etc. I've seen it countless times: a big guided group throws up a few ropes, and some of them end up being idle for literally hours while the entire group ends up using 1 or 2 ropes at a time.
I'm not saying this was necessarily true with your group, but its something to be aware of and strive to avoid. Also, the other group may have had a bad experience with big guided groups hogging routes, so maybe they already had some preconceived frustration.
In general, its best to climb the route, then pull your rope and move on as soon as possible. Unfortunately, that philosophy usually doesn't work for commercial/guided/school groups.
Why do you say that pulling the TR rope, then having to put it up would be a hassle? It would be easy as pie. Even if we are talking trad routes: If the other group was doing it leader/follower style, the follower can just trail your rope as he cleans, and put it back on your anchor when he tops out. If the leader intended on cleaning as he lowered, he can just lower off your TR anchor. Then you can just tape the end of your rope to the end of his and pull it through the anchor. Obviously, some of this depends on where the anchor point is. But the moral of the story is that there are plenty of easy methods that would have allowed you to put the TR back up in a matter of a couple minutes.
It doesn't appear that you were in the wrong based on your story. But the other group may have a different perception. In any case, there were a few things you could have done different that may or may not have resulted in a happier ending.
(This post was edited by redpoint73 on Feb 6, 2007, 8:27 PM)
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Post edited by redpoint73
() on Feb 6, 2007, 8:23 PM
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Post edited by redpoint73
() on Feb 6, 2007, 8:27 PM
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