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Climbing Disciplines:
Trad Climbing:
Re: [cracklover] Trad head, warriors way, and bad advice:
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joshy8200
Feb 14, 2007, 5:36 PM
Views: 5185
Registered: Oct 1, 2002
Posts: 646
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cracklover wrote: I believe that the "falling is okay" concept is really sport climbing bleeding over into trad climbing. And what's worse, I believe that the value of this mindset is *way* overrated in trad climbing these days. Yes, it has some value, as anyone who is pushing 10s, 11s, and higher on trad can attest. But there is *much* more value in knowing that you can keep it together and not fall when a fall is unsafe. This is the most important mental aspect to develop in trad climbing, and it's what the poster trying to get her lead head back *really* needs. Falling will do nothing for it. Mock leading will do nothing for it. The only thing to do is to put in plenty of miles on trad climbs that are below your limit, place lots of gear so that if you do fall, you'll be okay, and then in time, you will convince yourself that you *do* have the power to climb in near complete control, without falling. GO
Umm...so falling on trad is reserved only for those climbing trad above 5.10? Slightly logical because terrain under 5.10 can tend to be highly featured and have ledgeout potential.
But you say the only way someone can learn, is to climb lots of trad under the level that they will fall. Well, if you're not falling then how are you going to understand and learn to trust good gear placements?
Keep in mind Arno never says go out and climb a bunch of routes that you "can't" climb. He's saying to do exactly what you're talking about...GAINING EXPERIENCE. To gain experience falling...well you have to take some falls. He stresses the need to assess the falls and saftey of falling.
The point is so that you can push your climbing ability and learn. Yes it takes climbing routes that you're not going to fall off of, but the point of climbing those routes isn't to have a 'no fall' mentality. The point is to learn about your abilities: Are there times that you should back off or continue? What are the situations that a fall would be dangerous? How can I get out of this situation? Do I compose myself and climb on, and if so what could be the consequences?
Arno would be all for what you describe as gaining experience. His point would be to change the point of learning from the experiences to what CAN I do, as opposed to what should I not do.
(This post was edited by joshy8200 on Feb 14, 2007, 5:38 PM)
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Post edited by joshy8200
() on Feb 14, 2007, 5:38 PM
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