Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Trad Climbing: Re: [nashvegas] Advice on Cams: Edit Log




medicus


Apr 19, 2007, 10:55 PM

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Registered: Dec 2, 2006
Posts: 727

Re: [nashvegas] Advice on Cams
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If you sincerely need the advice, I second the "get a set of stoppers." From what others have told me, if you learn to set passive pro correctly, you will be that much more proficient when it comes to setting cams. My first trad lead was actually done purely on passive gear. The first part of my set up was multi directional, and it was a pretty bomber set up, so I was comfortable climbing the rest of the route with passive in place. I could easily free solo my first lead. I was basically just lugging gear up with me with the knowledge that if I fell, my placements probably weren't the best, but I did learn from that climb.

As far as cams go, I personally have .5-4 of C4's, and Green through Orange of aliens. I plan on eventually getting the power cams too. I've heard from several people that you should at least play around with the C3's outside before you buy a set of them. I actually used aliens prior to buying any of them, and I loved them enough that I knew I would be happy with a set of them. I think the C4's are probably a good all around cam. From my experiences, Aliens are great in the small/med sizes that they offer, I have limited experience with the larger sizes of Aliens though, as I have used C4's for those sizes. The C3's, from what I have heard to may be a little less versatile, but I don't have experience with them enough to verify that.
I'll reiterate this again though, don't be scared of passive pro. If you don't have any passive gear yet, I would at least shell out the $50-100 for a set of stoppers... you get 9-13 pieces for that price instead of 1-2 pieces also.
Good luck

Edit: to fix a botched up sentence.


(This post was edited by medicus on Apr 19, 2007, 10:58 PM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by medicus () on Apr 19, 2007, 10:58 PM


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