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Re: [petsfed] To retro or not?:
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fracture
May 22, 2007, 12:45 AM
Views: 5935
Registered: Jun 13, 2003
Posts: 1814
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petsfed wrote: If I only wanted to focus on the movement, I'd take up gymnastics. Climbing involves more than physical movement, otherwise that which separates it from more domestic fare is lost. Even the minimal risk of sport climbing is not entirely destroyed because to do so would be to eliminate most of the mental game of it.
The biggest objective risks in sport climbing include: skin injury, tendon or elbow injury, being slammed into the wall by an incompetent belayer, falling with clipping-slack within the first 10 meters or so, and decking due to grigri misuse.
Personally, my mental game is generally not related to any of those. And I would hypothesize that the mental game (and levels of risk) in gymnastics can be very similar to sport climbing.
In reply to: Sure, fine, bolt all the world's hairy leads. Hell, while we're at it, why not bolt all the cracks.
What I am advocating here is democratic control over public climbing resources, which is de facto rule anyway, internet protestations notwithstanding.
So, why not bolt all the cracks? Because some crags are frequented by a majority of climbers who do not want them bolted. Similarly, why bolt any cracks? Some crags (Potrero comes to mind) are frequented by a majority of climbers who want them bolted.
Sadly, the most reliable internet proponents of rule by so-called "local ethics" (such as our DMT), are apparently so infected with the toxic FA Veto Doctrine, that they apparently require this one universal as an exception. This One Holy Universal Law Which We All Must Abide.
In reply to: Do you know how much unclimbed and undeveloped rock there is in this country alone? God forbid you get off your butt and find it and develop it by whatever ethic you see fit! I know of miles and miles of awesome stone just begging for somebody to rap in and drill bolts. Why in the world would anyone modify what's already there? Its just lazy. And there is so much untouched stone, even in such "wastelands" as Texas that there's not a single reason why anyone should have to retro bolt any route just to make it more "accessible".)
Either you have a very different concept of "miles and miles of awesome stone" than I do, or you have never been to Texas, or you have a lot of money to put into real estate, or you are willing to break the law and bolt without permission.
(This post was edited by fracture on May 22, 2007, 12:49 AM)
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Post edited by fracture
() on May 22, 2007, 12:49 AM
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