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Re: [fracture] To retro or not?:
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petsfed
May 24, 2007, 12:01 AM
Views: 6364
Registered: Sep 25, 2002
Posts: 8599
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fracture wrote: caughtinside wrote: Anything rap bolted should be fair game for reasonable fixes. I'm speechless. (Although, actually, I disagree. I do think local consensus should trump the lameness-factor. If locals really want to climb lame rap-bolted runout routes, let 'em have what they ask for.)
Ironically, caughtinside's perspective is something I can agree with and this is perhaps where we seem to be talking past each other. If you rap bolt, I think you have an obligation to make the route reasonably safe and if you fail to do so, then the community can come in and correct your work (assuming rap bolting is kosher in your area) even against your protests. There's nothing proud or bold about a route you worked into submission then added the minimum of bolts that YOU needed to get up it. Its like headpointing, but without the dodgy pro. However, if you drilled a route ground-up (in what I might call a traditional fashion) the community should never add bolts to the route without your explicit permission. Note that in either case, I think it takes overwhelming community support (perhaps a formalized governing body) to legitimize retrobolting. We still need to avoid grid-bolting and the like, but there is some common ground to be had here.
I think bold sport climbing is an oxymoron, and anyone who places bolts from rappel but still leaves the route dangerously run out is an idiot who is trying to compensate for something.
On a related note, were the bolts at E-rock placed on rappel or on lead?
(This post was edited by petsfed on May 24, 2007, 12:06 AM)
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Edit Log:
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Post edited by petsfed
() on May 24, 2007, 12:06 AM
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