Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Sport Climbing: Re: [caughtinside] To retro or not?: Edit Log




azrockclimber


Jun 1, 2007, 5:23 PM

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Registered: Jan 28, 2005
Posts: 666

Re: [caughtinside] To retro or not?
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caughtinside wrote:
fracture wrote:
caughtinside wrote:
I don't think you will get a huge fight there jay, but what about fracture's proposal to add more dogging bolts for pure convenience?

This is not originally my idea. (And dogging bolts aren't a very new concept at all.)

In reply to:
I don't think that is real cool. At that point, all climbing routes become the same.

Only if you are completely uninterested in movement.

I'm aware that dogging bolts are not a new idea. But retro dogging bolts is a new one for me. Probably has to do with the areas we climb at.

And I got a snicker as to your little zinger about complete lack of interest in movement. Good one. No, we cannot all be so singlemindedly focused on the ballet climbing that you so relish.

here is something to think about. I actually enjoy several different kinds of climbing. I really enjoy climbing in many different areas, and exposing myself to new climbing areas, which have their own nuances and character.

It is interesting that you push so hard for democracy on bolting issues. Maybe it's just because I'm here (where the climbing is sweet) and you're there (where the climbing is ???, but likely less than totally sweet) but I have a feeling more people would like to see variety.

i don't think being a 5.13 ballet climber will really put you in the majority. Know what I mean?

I agree with this.... retro'ing in "dogging" bolts is definitely a "new" idea to me.... and a completely lame one at that.

I also agree with the statement about the quality of climbing in his area. Basically...it sucks... I am from a climbing area where it is, as you said, sweet. The idea of just retro'ing into some of the great sport routes on Mt. Lemmon sounds insane...

There are a bunch of routes up there that I haven't done because I don't have the confidence or the skill to comlete the route without taking a potentially dangerous whipper. It never crossed my mind to rape the route and add bolts where I needed them to make me feel safe, and to avoid that rough whipper.... WTF? I will get those routes someday....when I am good enough to get through that section without falling...or confident enough with my skill level to attempt it....or just plain old don't give a shit about getting busted up...

regardless, retro-bolting into a route makes it a completly different route and it shouldn't even have the same name after that. iThis is just BS.


(This post was edited by azrockclimber on Jun 1, 2007, 5:26 PM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by azrockclimber () on Jun 1, 2007, 5:26 PM


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