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Re: [j_ung] To retro or not?:
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fracture
Jun 5, 2007, 2:12 AM
Views: 4080
Registered: Jun 13, 2003
Posts: 1814
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j_ung wrote: fracture wrote: If you respected them, you would trust them to make good decisions about how to manage their climbing resources, instead of telling us they should be governed by a single-handed dictatorship. I've been out of this thread for some time, so I apologize if this got asked, but would you please give me an example of a climbing area in which a single-handed dictatorship exists in conflict with a majority of the local climbers?
It got discussed. I don't know of one. As I told dingus, what I am advocating is actually the de facto rule anyway, despite the lip-service people pay to the FA Veto. Excluding cases of vigilante chopping (which often just amounts to temporary vandalism), at areas where an FA's Veto actually means something, it really only does so because a sufficient number of the people who climb there are in favor of it.
But I would like modern sport climbers to realize that they shouldn't even pay lip-service to it. I don't really care what people do at highly traditional crags that I'll probably never visit (e.g. Yosemite; you'd probably have to pay me to get me to climb there). In my backyard, though, the FAVD causes conflict because some local sport climbers don't understand the distinction between a bolted ground up route and a rap-bolted route. They don't understand the difference between the so-called "testpiece" route(s) at Reimer's (rap bolted runouts that were toprope-inspected and/or rehearsed prior to the first lead) and the bolted E-Rock backside (much of which was originally done on lead from stance without aid). They also don't understand the long local history of retro's made to sport climbs without FA-knowledge.
Ground up is a lame style of bolting (I have made many posts about it). But rap-bolting runouts is even lamer, and has much more relevance to the sport I engage in (granite slab climbing generally doesn't constitute much more than a rest day activity, to me).
Does that clarify?
(This post was edited by fracture on Jun 5, 2007, 3:27 AM)
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Edit Log:
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Post edited by fracture
() on Jun 5, 2007, 2:17 AM
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Post edited by fracture
() on Jun 5, 2007, 2:18 AM
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Post edited by fracture
() on Jun 5, 2007, 3:27 AM
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