ja1484 wrote:
tradmanclimbs wrote:
In this case majids post was actually better than any of the posts where you nilliys all sent the poor noob out to whip away and most likly get hurt
the leader must not fall untill the leader is on steep well bolted sport climbs or the leader is experienced and is on a steep well protected gear climb. You guys are encourageing a noob to practice leader falls on 5.6 and 5.7 trad climbs?? WTF?? You guys are way the fck out there on this one and make majid look pretty good today.... gear does rip and sometimes it breaks in low fall factor falls. (see aliens) Sometimes you hit things and you break. Bolts pull out and break, draws break, ropes get cut on sharp edges, all of this stuff is pretty rare but is is not a bad idea to know that the system is not bulletproof. Gravity does not lie and you don't get too many second chances in this game. learning how to lead without falling is an essentual skill. The best time to learn that skill is when you are starting. Pleanty of time to learn how to lead fall when you are a seasoned pro.
I just wanted to take this opporunity to point out that I have not encouraged the OP to practice falling on anything anywhere, or to practice falling at all.
All I did was reveal the origin of Majid's photos and point out that he's a moron, so please don't lump me in your chiding. I knew all of the above long before posting which is why I didn't get involved.
So, all of THEM are encouraging 5.6/5.7 trad falls, or whomever actually said it. I have an opinion on the subject, but I'm not going to post it as I don't want to get into a pissing match over a subject that is so incredibly a personal opinion.
And a few points:
- Aliens fail at low loads when they're improperly manufactured, which appears to be most of the time these days. Lesson: Don't climb on aliens.
- REPUTABLE gear breaking is exceptionally rare.
- If you're stupid enough to think the system is bulletproof, you deserve death.
