Forums: Climbing Information: Beginners: Re: [majid_sabet] Falling on lead?: Edit Log




ja1484


Jun 11, 2007, 7:39 PM

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Registered: Aug 11, 2006
Posts: 1935

Re: [majid_sabet] Falling on lead?
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majid_sabet wrote:
ja1484 wrote:
I just wanted to take this opporunity to point out that I have not encouraged the OP to practice falling on anything anywhere, or to practice falling at all.

All I did was reveal the origin of Majid's photos and point out that he's a moron, so please don't lump me in your chiding. I knew all of the above long before posting which is why I didn't get involved.

So, all of THEM are encouraging 5.6/5.7 trad falls, or whomever actually said it. I have an opinion on the subject, but I'm not going to post it as I don't want to get into a pissing match over a subject that is so incredibly a personal opinion.


And a few points:

- Aliens fail at low loads when they're improperly manufactured, which appears to be most of the time these days. Lesson: Don't climb on aliens.

- REPUTABLE gear breaking is exceptionally rare.

- If you're stupid enough to think the system is bulletproof, you deserve death.

I may be a moron but you guys are super moron for giving so called expert advice to beginners that is okay to jump and it is okay to fall cause based on the CF manufactures records, all climbing gears are safe and they will do their job to protect you.


STOPPPPPP

Climbing gears are there as backups and occasionally backups fail (very rare) but like any other hardware, they do fail. The price tag for such failures are either major injuries and commonly involves with DEATH. You as a beginner should focus on your climbing skill and experience as primary way to increase your ability to climb higher and enjoy this lovely sport. Gears and protections are only there as a backup incase you loose it. You want to be better climber then assume there are no ropes and there are no protections and if you fall, you will die.

Stop telling people that is okay to fall and if what I say make me moron then that is fine with me.


Once again, you're replying to the wrong person - I never told anyone to fall or said it was ok.


Thanks for playing though.


And regarding gear: Falling is a bad idea under almost all circumstances. That said, modern trad gear, when placed well, is substantially more dependable than the protection of yore. That doesn't make falling on it ok or even a good idea, but it did amend the rule from "the leader must not fall" to "the leader must not fall...very much".

The *point*, vis a vis you and I, is that worrying about gear failure when the gear is properly used is stupid. It's insanely rare, it's not something you have control over, and a million other things are more likely to get you first. Rapping off the end of your ropes, for example, or your GEAR PULLING OUT, which is by FAR the biggest danger.

So again: Please stop putting words in my mouth, and please stop spreading uneccessary FUD about gear falling apart. If it's gonna happen, there's nothing you can do about it, and, that said, it ain't gonna happen.


(This post was edited by ja1484 on Jun 11, 2007, 7:51 PM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by ja1484 () on Jun 11, 2007, 7:42 PM
Post edited by ja1484 () on Jun 11, 2007, 7:49 PM
Post edited by ja1484 () on Jun 11, 2007, 7:50 PM
Post edited by ja1484 () on Jun 11, 2007, 7:51 PM


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